Five things Kim Kardashian would do on a visit to Yerevan

August 19, 2011 by Beth Shepherd

Not many people travel to Armenia. I count myself as one of the lucky few, having visited three times. Armenia is a beautiful country with a rich history dating back centuries, to the 8^th century B.C.

There are many interesting things to do in the capitol city of Yerevan itself. Here are a few of my favorites that I’m sure Miss Kardashian—who is of Armenian descent–would enjoy.

1. Shop. “Well, duh.“

Designer clothing shops line the streets of Yerevan. You can buy Armani in Armenia. Most of the women you see—in the city–are fashionably decked out in sky-high heels and short, form-fitting dresses.

My favorite place to shop for jewelry and handcrafted treasures is Vernissage, the immense outdoor market near Republic Square that is open every Saturday and Sunday throughout the year. Part craft market, part thrift, people set up tables and also lay out their wares on the grass. It’s an eclectic mix: you can just as easily find surplus military gear and antique silver spoons as you can ceramics, dolls, knick-knacks and beautiful chess sets.

Another fun spot to find local color—and by this I mean art– is the outdoor Paintings Market. This market is across from Opera Square near the statue of Saryan. There are some real gems that can be found at negotiable prices. Purchases are made from both dealers and the artists themselves.

2. See and be seen at an outdoor café. “Khloe, are we in Paris?”

Social life in Yerevan centers on the multitude of cafes with European ambiance that dot the city’s interior. People spend hours sitting, eating, chatting and watching the throngs pass by.

And the food–be still my stomach—the food is out of this world: barbeque, kabobs, sandwiches, dolma and lamajun (Armenian pizza). You can’t go wrong with any choice you make. The only problem you’ll encounter is which café to dine at and which menu items to select!

3. Stay bootylicious by climbing the steps of the Cascade. “Oh-my-gawd-Kourtney, my buns are killing me.”

Feeling like you need to work off that extra piece of baklava? Then head to the Cascade, a behemoth stairwell with 572 steps that was built during the 1970s into a hillside in the center of the city. Water fountains abound, symbolizing a natural “cascade” in a river or stream (hence the name). On a clear day you can see famous Mt. Ararat (now in Turkey), where Noah’s Ark is supposed to have landed.

Although its original intent was as a monument, beginning in the 1990s the Cascade emerged as one of the focal points in Yerevan, similar to the Republic Square. It offers spectacular views of Mount Ararat and the city center. If you’re not up for the stairs, there is an elevator available to take you to the top.

4. Visit the Children’s Art Gallery. “Can you believe all these freakin’ adorable paintings?”

Located on Abovyan Street, the Children’s Art Gallery is an internationally recognized museum with both rotating exhibits by adult artists as well as a permanent collection of children’s paintings from around the world. These paintings are pure magic, many of them depicting scenes from the children’s homelands.

5. Pay homage to Armenia’s history at the Genocide Memorial.

Every year on April 24, hundreds of thousands of Armenians gather here to remember the victims of the 1915 Armenian Genocide. It is hard not to be moved by the eternal flame commemorating thousands of Armenian citizens who perished. The memorial and a small museum are located on a hillside overlooking Yerevan.

The full Manti

February 16, 2011 by Beth Shepherd

The last time I was in Armenia, I ate Manti with Maribeth. We were dining at The Club, a lovely subterranean restaurant with delicious food, located in the center of Yerevan, Armenia’s capitol.

Maribeth and I were there to celebrate. We’d each just registered our adoption (formally accepted our referral). We were in the same room at the same time (Big Papa didn’t make this trip – a story for another post) and a bond was formed between us after sharing this life-changing, emotional experience.

Amazingly, Maribeth is also originally from Seattle (though she now resides on the east coast). The irony isn’t lost on me: Beth and Maribeth, both from Seattle.

Here we were, breaking bread together – and toasting with a shot of Armenian brandy – to honor this momentous occasion, in a restaurant half-way around the world from the place we call home. How crazy is that?

The meal was stupendous. We ordered a sampler platter filled with dolma, hummus, baba-ganoush, and a host of amazing Armenian dishes.

Then the Manti was served. Honestly, for the next few minutes, the only sound you could hear was Maribeth and I swooning over our Manti.

“Mmmm,” she murmured.

“Wow,” I concurred.

If there is a mantra for Manti, Maribeth and I have been meditating on it ever since. We both dream about Manti.

Manti are dumplings. Divine dumplings. Slightly crisped on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth incredible on the inside, and bathed in a savory yogurt sauce. It was so good. I wanted to dive right into that bowl. Of course, first I would have had to arm-wrestle Maribeth.

When it comes to Manti, there are actually two kinds: baked manti and also a version cooked in broth as a soup. They are each prepared the same general way, but are shaped differently. Baked Manti are baked in the oven whereas soup manti are cooked in broth. Although Manti is not exclusive to Armenia, and I’ve seen a few variations on a theme, they are typically served topped with a yogurt-garlic sauce and sumac, that interesting, sour, Middle-Eastern spice.

Aside from its heavenly flavor, Manti is notable for being a time consuming dish to prepare. I have seen a few recipes that call themselves “short-cuts” and use wonton wrappers for the dough, but come on people, that’s cheating. Yes, it takes a long time to make them, but as Maribeth and I will tell you: when it comes to Manti (and adoption) the wait and the effort is worth it!

This weekend, Manti is on the menu (and it’s a safe bet that our bottle of Armenian brandy won’t be far away). Another celebration is in order. In three weeks, Maribeth is going to Armenia to become a mom! And hopefully, it won’t be long before I’m once again following in her footsteps.

Congratulations, dear friend: this one’s for you!

Manti

Makes About 100: Serves 4 to 5

Each of these tiny dumplings is about the size of your fingertip, so you can easily serve 20 to 25 to each person. It’s traditional to invite friends to help fill and seal the Manti; after all, many hands make light work. They can be frozen for up to 1 month.

For the Dough:

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/2 teaspoon course salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons cold water

For the filling:

8 ounces ground lamb
1 medium yellow onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater (1/2 cup)
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon course salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

For Cooking and Serving:

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
3 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
Course salt
1 1/2 cups plain Greek yogurt or labneh
2 garlic cloves, minced and mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt
1 1/2 teaspoons dried mint
3/4 teaspoon red pepper (or papikra)
a sprinkle of Sumac (found in grocery stores or spice shops that specialize in Middle Eastern foods)

Make the dough: Sift together flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add egg. Using your hands, gently draw flour mixture into egg. Gradually add the cold water, and continue to work dough with your hands or a spoon until it forms a smooth paste.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface. Kneed until dough is smooth and springs back when pressed, 5 to 8 minutes. Divide dough into 2 balls, cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Make the filling: Gently combine lamb, onion, parsley, salt and pepper. (Filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.)
On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 portion of dough into a 16-by-10 inch oblong about 1/16 inch think. Using a ruler, cut dough into 1 1/4 inch squares with a pizza wheel or a paring knife. Keep remaining dough covered with a damp kitchen towel while you work.
Spoon 1/4 teaspoon filing in center of 1 dough square. Gently pull 2 opposite corners outward to stretch dough slightly, then pull up to meet in center, and pinch to seal. Repeat with remaining 2 corners, making sure all air has been pressed out. Pinch together all 4 corners to form a point, then pinch along all 4 seams to seal. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, and cover with a damp kitchen towel. repeat. Remove towel, and cover with a piece of parchment. (Dumplings can be refrigerated on baking sheets, wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 day. Alternatively, freeze on baking sheets, uncovered, for 2 hours, then transfer to an airtight container and freeze for up to 1 month.)
For cooking and serving: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon butter. Arrange Manti in a single snug layer in the dish. Bake until fragrant and tops and corners are golden brown, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring stock, cinnamon, bay leaves and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil in a saucepan. Remove baking dish from oven, and add enough stock to dish so that all but the tops of the Manti are submerged. Cover tightly with parchment and then foil, and bake until soft, about 2 minutes more.
Meanwhile, stir together yogurt or labneh and garlic paste in a medium bowl. When Manti have finished cooking, tile baking dish, collect about 1/4 cup liquid with a ladle, and stir into yogurt sauce (sauce should be spoonable).
Melt remaining 7 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, and cook until amber, about 7 minutes.
Divide Manti among shallow serving bowls. Spoon yogurt sauce over top, drizzle with browned butter, and sprinkle with mint, red pepper and sumac.

Dying for more dumplings? Check out Wanderfood Wednesday!

The color of pomegranates

January 6, 2010 by Beth Shepherd

Shenoraavor Nor Dari yev Pari Gaghand! That’s ‘Merry Christmas’ in Armenian.

While the glow of the holiday season is fading in the U.S. and Christmas trees have been stripped of their glory and are heading to the curb, today is Christmas Day in Armenia. Armenian Christmas is celebrated January 6. So it is both ironic and fitting that the wine tasting at 12th & Olive Wine Company, this past Saturday, featured pomegranate wine.

The pomegranate, with its symbolic association with fertility, is the national fruit of Armenia. When Big Papa and I visited Yerevan this past September, the pomegranate was everywhere. At the Vernissage Flea Market in the center of the city, we saw glass pomegranate earrings, pomegranates painted on bookmarks and artwork and dried pomegranate Christmas tree ornaments.

“Pomegranate” is from the Latin “pomum granatum” which means “apple of many seeds.” Pomegranates are high in antioxidants. 100 ml of pomegranate juice has three times the antioxidants of 100 ml of red wine or 100 ml. of green tea. The health benefits are almost legendary. Consuming this fruit is thought to prevent lung, prostate and breast cancer, Alzheimer’s and Osteoarthritis. It protects the arteries, lowers cholesterol and blood pressure and may reduce dental plaque. It is even purported to increase virility and fertility.

At the 12th & Olive tasting we sampled three wines made from pomegranates, a sparkling wine from Argentina, Armenian wine, and an Israeli dessert wine. All three had their own unique charm. Big Papa and I were excited to have a taste of the Armenian wine as it’s a rarity to find anything made in Armenia here in Seattle.

Both the Argentinean sparkler and Armenian wine were produced by ReVah. Steven, the wonderfully knowledgeable, friendly and helpful owner of 12th and Olive told us ReVah sources the fruit from each country. The Armenian wine is made at the Proshyan Wine Factory, which also makes some of Armenia’s famous brandy. We noticed Proshyan is in Yerevan and hope to visit the wine factory on our next trip.

Holding our glasses to the light, the color of the wine was a deep red, with shades of violet and raspberry. Putting my nose to the glass there was no mistaking the intense aroma of pomegranates. The wine was a bit sweet on the palate but not as syrupy as I imagined it might be, with hints of fresh fruit and light acidity. For $12.99 it’s a nice wine to enjoy on a warm summer’s day…or for those days when I want to conjure memories of being in Armenia.

When I was a child, my parents often bought pomegranates as a special treat. On a recent trip to visit my mother, she had a pomegranate waiting for me. I love the magic of cutting open the fruit to reveal hundreds of ruby-colored seeds.

Pomegranate’s subtle sweetness now holds an even deeper meaning for me, a thread to the heart of Armenia. Many Armenian fairy tales end thus: “Three pomegranates fell down from heaven: One for the story teller, one for the listener, and one for the whole world.”

Check out the WanderFood Wednesday series for more great food postings!

Half my life

September 4, 2009 by Beth Shepherd

Walking along the Seine in late summer, I watched the sun sparkle across the water. With a baguette tucked under my arm and a chunk of French runny stinky cheese wrapped in paper, I strolled and nibbled my way along the quaint cobbled streets of the Left Bank. The year was 1985 and I was on a six week vacation in Europe before starting my second year of a Ph.D. program at the University of Washington. I adore traveling and I loved Europe. My pores soaked in every moment, the sounds the sights and the flavors. As soon as I got on the plane to return to Seattle, I began imagining when I might be back.

I never thought it would take another 24 years, half my life, to see the city of lights once again! Years paying for college and graduate school left me with mounds of debt and I worked in low-paying jobs, never seeming to be able to get ahead. If I did hop on a plane, it was to visit my family on the east coast. I longed to find some way to make a trip overseas a reality but it never happened. Somehow I managed to wander very far afield from my dreams and passions.

Last night, a friend and I went to see the movie, Julie and Julia. Julia Child’s story is amazing to watch and Meryl Streep played her to perfection. But what really stopped me in my tracks were scenes of streets and markets of Paris. In one week, I will be there. Big Papa and I are spending three nights in Paris before heading off to Yerevan, Armenia’s capitol. It will be Big Papa’s first time in Europe proper. He’s visited London and Wales, but never the European continent. I can’t wait to share it with him, even though it’s just a blink of a visit.

At first, my list of things to see and do was quite long. Surely we would not sleep. We would visit the Rodin Museum, take a boat ride on the Seine, hike up Montmartre and visit Eiffel Tower at night. There were restaurants to dine at, markets to peruse and neighborhoods to explore.

As reality began to seep in, I realized that I would need to distill my list to just a few chosen gems. I agonized about which attractions I might trade, when it finally dawned on me that what stole my heart and held strong in my memory all these years was just the experience of being there. No matter what we do or where we go, we are in Paris. Together.

I can’t wait to hold Big Papa’s hand while we traipse through the Tuileries or sweat our way up the steps to Sacre Coeur. He’ll see the light dance in my eyes when I spy a chocolate shop a few doors ahead. We’ll both relish meandering through the little market we were surprised to find when we took the wrong turn and rounded the corner.

Bon Voyage to us! All aboard to Paris and then on to Armenia.