“The” Dress Shop

April 9, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

There is a dress shop in Yerevan that those of us in the know refer to as “The” Dress Shop. Sharan Crafts Center employs talented local artisans who produce beautiful items for family and home including sweaters, pillows holiday ornaments, Christmas stockings, toys, hair accessories. And dresses.

I’ve heard the store is mostly frequented by tourists and while that may be true, whenever I see a child dressed in something from Sharan, all I can think about is Armenia. I know every single one of my fellow adoptive moms with kids from Armenia, swoon at the sight of one of our children wearing Sharan. Each of our little ones has her own unique charm, but those dresses add a certain je ne sais quois.

In 2009, when I visited Sharan, we went to the original location in a residential neighborhood. A sweater, a few dresses, a few hairbands, a knit cat, and a wonderful Christmas stocking all made their way into our luggage. A year or so later, they opened up a beautiful shop in the center of Yereven on Sayat-Nova 6. I’ve made sure to stop by–at least once–on every trip I made to Armenia.

The first dress our daughter wore featured a sheep. We are Shepherds, after all.

Clothing comes in an assortment of hues, from richly saturated like this dress she wore last year, to pale pastels. Every piece has delightful knit-work. I always find it hard to decide and I’m sure the shopkeepers wonder why I’m spending so much time perusing every last item on display.

You can find sweet floral hairbands and ponytail holders with a knit ladybug or a snowman. Little Bird still tries to squeeze her head into these hairbands she wore as a baby because she loves them so much.

There are hats too. And lest you think Sharan is just for girls, let me tell you that they are always well-stocked with sweaters, vests and all sorts of awesome duds for boys. Sharan also has pillows, stuffed animals, and a small assortment of table linens.

Whenever I’ve visited the store, I’ve found it nearly impossible to resist their delightfully decorated clothes. I always seem to leave with my purse heavier and my wallet lighter. The treasures I’ve brought home, especially the dresses, definitely fall far from my usual, I only buy second-hand clothing rule, but they are so darn cute.

Every time Little Bird puts on a dress from The Dress Shop, I think it must be the most adorable dress I’ve ever seen. Until she puts on another and I’m sure that one is the cutest, which is what I thought about this year’s dress featuring…a little bird.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Two weeks in Yerevan with an infant

April 1, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Three years ago, we spent a a couple weeks in Yerevan, Armenia, as a new family. In between obtaining a passport and visa for Baby Bird, we spent a lot of time wandering through the city. Here are a few of her favorite diversions.

Listening to the soulful sound of the duduk. Our little one was absolutely mesmerized by the sound of this beloved Armenian instrument. We found this man playing on Abovyan Street just outside the lovely 13th century Kathoghike church.

Baby Bird seesaw! There are several playgrounds in Yerevan with swings, seesaws, playground equipment. Or you can head to the top of the Cascade and check out Victory Park with its Mother Armenia statue, incredible views of the city below and take-me-back-to-Soviet-era funky rides where you can keep your kids entertained for hours and spend less than $10 US.

Baby Bird loved riding the escalator. Good thing because, inside the Cascade, are some of the longest escalators I’ve ever seen. Most of the time, when we visit the Cascade, we get our workout by climbing the stairs (all 572 of them to be exact), but she sure had a good time riding the electric staircase and our legs appreciated the break.

We met this dude at the base of the Cascades, outside Orange Elephant (no surprise there), a children’s art and education store. The store looked bright and cheery, a good place for a kid to be artsy in Armenia. But the elephant? She wasn’t too sure what to make of him. Neither were we.

Balloon inside. Bubbles outside. Sales attendants fawning all over our little munchkin. What’s not to like? This children’s clothing store on Tumanyan Street was probably Baby Bird’s favorite “attraction” in Yerevan. While Mama and Dada might have preferred checking out the view of Mt. Ararat, bustling markets and the ancient history of this city, one look at her smile tells it all–she thought this place was the bomb.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Nappies for Nork

March 27, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Do you ever feel like you want do something bigger than yourself, even just a little something? Send a few dollars to Nappies for Nork. Nork is a children’s home in Yerevan, one of the two children’s homes I visited during my trips to Armenia. Here’s more:

Nappies for Nork

Nork orphanage, located in Yerevan, Armenia, is home to approximately 80 orphans, newborn infants to grade-school children. Nork is in dire need of disposable diapers. While it should be the responsibility of the Armenian government to supply basic necessities such as diapers, economic constraints have made doing so a challenge.

In the US, a brand-name diaper costs roughly 15 to 30-cents per diaper. In Armenia, diapers are more expensive, closer to 25 to 50-cent per diaper, depending on the size and brand. The bottom line (sorry…couldn’t resist) is that for $1.50- $3.00, a child at Nork can be clean and comfortable for an entire day. $70 will keep a child in diapers for an entire month. Approximately $135 will ensure every child at Nork has fresh diapers for a 24-hour period.

Hopscotch Adoptions has partnered with SOAR (Society for Orphaned Armenian Relief) to set up a diaper fund: http://soar-us.org/diaper_fund.html where you can make a tax-deductible donation: http://soar-us.org/donate.html. Note: If you pay via the Paypal link on SOAR’s website, make a note in Paypal that your donation is for the Nork diaper fund. If you send a check, write ‘Nork Diaper fund’ in the “For” line.

Make your contribution, in any amount, between now and Easter Sunday–April 5–and you can also enter a drawing for a variety of items, including a cookbook, Armenian Christmas music cd, Starbucks gift card or an 8×10 photograph taken in Armenia by yours truly! Email viviane8 at yahoo dot com. Let her know you made a donation and provide your contact information.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Three years ago: Gyumri, Armenia

March 16, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Three years ago on March 16, we flew from London to Yerevan, Armenia. We arrived at midnight. Snow was falling. The roads were icy and hazardous.

I should also mention our driver, who did not speak any English, was a former professional wrestler. One glance at him told us all we needed to know. He was a very large, exceptionally muscular man. This was supposed to be a comfort to us–should we encounter any “trouble.”

However, as we wound our way up and down hills, through tiny villages, traversing small side roads unfamiliar to us, I began to worry. We’d driven from Yerevan to Gyumri and back, five times on our registration trip six months…but we’d never taken this route. My mind played terrible tricks as I imagined our fate.

But arrive at our destination we did. And safely. At 3:00 a.m. in the morning.

We checked into the Nane Hotel. I still feel badly for the poor guy at the front desk who was forced to wait up for us. He gave us the key to our room, a number I will never forget–the area code for our home city. On the table in our room, was this statuette, an apropos reminder of why we’d traveled half way around the world.

In the morning, a snow-covered Gyumri greeted us. Along with a temperature of 5-below-zero Fahrenheit.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Mushurba – The golden cup of Gyumri

March 5, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

When I saw this photo of a giant mushurba statue in Gyumri, I was dismayed. Despite all the photos I took to remember the city, how did I miss this? I felt a better when I read it hadn’t been installed until 2013. We visited in 2011 and 2012.

Arman Musikyan, Wikimedia.

A mushurba is a cup–distinctive to Gyumri, Armenia–with two chambers, made from copper or silver. As you sip, you’ll hear the sound of gurgling water. The sound results from he intentional design of the cup.

From what I understand, the way it works is by preventing air from coming out when water is poured into the cup. This creates bubbles which, in turn, make he sound of a burbling brook.We were told the design of the mushurba helps keep the temperature of the liquid inside stable.I’ve also heard that in the 21st century there was a local tradition with the host presenting a mushurba to guests.

Without a doubt, the mushurba is a symbol unique to Gyumri, which is why we really wanted to locate one to take home with us. Our translator helped us locate a gift shop on the pedestrian shopping street in downtown Gyumri where we could purchase our gurgling cup. The shopkeeper was so sweet and poured water in our cup so that we knew we were getting the real deal.

Our mushurba is one of the souvenirs from our travels, I treasure the most. I look forward to sharing the tradition of this special golden cup with our daughter as she grows up.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Winter in Armenia

February 18, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Seasonally, Armenia excels in extremes. In the winter it is cold. Very, very cold. And in the summer it is hot. Very, very hot.

When Seattle gets chilly, we always say, “Well, if we were in Armenia, it would be 20 degrees colder.” Even in Spring (our last trip was late March), temperatures can easily dip below zero (Fahrenheit) at night.

But there is a certain stark loveliness when the ground pulls a blanket of white over itself, the trees show off their beautiful bones and the air is crisp and clear. Here are some photographs I took that give you an idea of what winter in Armenia looks like.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Merry Armenian Christmas

January 5, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

To my friends here in the U.S., and overseas, who celebrate Armenian Christmas on January 6: Շնորհավոր Ամանոր և Սուրբ Ծնունդ (Shnorhavor Amanor yev Surb Tznund).

Whether you celebrate holidays the Armenian way or with your own cultural and seasonal flair:

Merry Christmas

and

Happy New Year from Pampers and Pakhlava

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Celebrate Christmas and New Year the Armenian way

December 16, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

Just about the time when most of us are taking down our Christmas trees and packing up our ornaments for next year, Armenia is ramping up for week of holiday festivities. In Armenia, Christmas falls on January 6th and Christmas Eve is celebrated the night before, January 5. This is because Armenians–for centuries–followed the Julian calendar, introduced by Julius Caesar in 46 BC.

Armenia was also first country in the world to adopt Christianity as its official religion in AD 301, when they established the Armenian Apostolic Church. It wasn’t until 1582 when the Gregorian calendar was created. Most countries (including Armenia) now follow the Gregorian calendar, but a few Eastern Orthodox churches, like the Armenian church, still use the Julian calendar for calculating the dates of certain feasts. The Julian calendar is 13 days behind the Gregorian calendar and this is why Armenians observe Christmas on January 6.

And to make matters more confusing (but only for us westerners), Gaghant Baba (aka Santa Claus) comes to visit on December 31, bringing gifts to the children. Lighthearted celebrations, like those with Gaghant Baba, are kept separate from Christmas itself, which is revered as a solely religious holiday.

Where the New Year is concerned, the 21st of March was the date Armenians were faithful to. For hundreds of years, this date marked New Year, the beginning of spring and the birthday of the mythical God Vahangn. It wasn’t until the end of the 20th century that Armenia adopted January 1st as the official first day of the New Year.

For children, the New Year brings a lot of excitement. Many centuries ago, it was customary for children to gather together on New Year’s Eve and wander the streets of their village, singing songs to their neighbors, welcoming the New Year. In return, they received fruit as gifts.

These days Armenian families enjoy dried fruits, special pastries and cakes, some of which are only made at this time of year. Cakes might even have a coin hidden inside, bringing the finder good luck in the coming year. Dolma, grape leaves wrapped and stuffed with rice, are also part of the New Year’s feast.

Families in Armenia spend a fortune (I’ve read that the equivalent $700 US isn’t unusual) buying food to ensure there is always enough for anyone and everyone who might stop by. They readily open their homes and their hearts because– for Armenians–come on over to my house is what the season is really all about.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Gifts from Armenia

November 13, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

“I am not the same

having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.”

~Mary Anne Radmacher

Last week a very special package arrived at our house. Inside were gifts from Armenia: a few items for our dining room, hand-made wooden earrings, a lovely jewelry box and an amazing traditional Armenian costume, designed with our Little Bird in mind. I could barely contain my excitement–it was like having Christmas and birthday celebrations all rolled into one.

I will always hold Armenia close to my heart, like no other place I’ve ever traveled to. My daughter was born in the shadow of her mountains. We’ve graced our tiny home with paintings and memorabilia from our trips, but much of the time, this country which cradles the history and culture of our daughter’s beginnings, seems impossibly far away.

Two table runners and a two place mats now grace our dining room, and when I walk past them, I smile. The amazing part is how closely the traditionally-styled table runners match the colors of our dining room. Burgundy, sage green, accents of coral, cream and gold. It was if my dear friend had been standing right there when she chose them for us.

Close-up of table runner

Our dining room rug

There are days when my longing to be there is palpable. And that is why having a bit of —there–here, warms my heart.

With love and gratitude to H-jan and V. Gifts, Part II, coming soon!

Take the road less traveled,

Beth

Photos from Gyumri

October 17, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

Photos from Gyumri, Armenia show her old world beauty. Not beautiful in the way one might describe Paris or Prague, but with her breathtaking metal downspouts, luminous tuff buildings, and plentiful sculptures, Gyumri has a beauty all her own. Even with the destruction wrought by the earthquake that devastated the region in 1988, fragments tell a story of what once was. Three years ago, I stood amidst it all. And one day I will see her again.

Take the road less traveled, Beth