Temperatures hovered in the 50s and the wind added a crisp bite to the air. No matter, I was on a mission in Amsterdam’s Albert Cuyp market. Patat frites (French fries) with mayonnaise was the fix I was after: a cone-full of delectable crispy potatoes topped with a dollop of lemon-tinged silky smooth mayo on top. Then again, maybe a fresh stroopwafel (syrup waffle cookies), dripping with hot caramel might do the trick. I could balance the sugary sweetness out with a nice hunk of creamy boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese).
Oh Amsterdam. How I love thee. Once, as a young college student, I lived in this city of sinful delight, and no I’m not referring to the Red Light District or the abundant marijuana. I’m talking about the food. Dutch food is a treat. After a three decade absence, when I found out that I was going to have the opportunity to spend a few days in the city I adored, I can tell you flat out that my list of “must taste” goodies was quite long.
First there’s the cheese. Gouda, Edam, Boerenkaas, even Frisian Clove Cheese (from the north part of the country, Friesland, and made with cumin and cloves). They are all equally tasty and I can never decide so I just nibble on a selection throughout the day.
Then there’s the bread. Put a chunk of cheese on a healthy slice of roggebrood (rye bread) and I am one happy camper. The chewy, heady bread combined with rich flavorful cheese is a match made in heaven. In fact, for nearly nine months straight during my college semester stint in Holland, I ate that duo for lunch.
Breakfast options were all heartbreakers (or heart stoppers, depending on how you look at it). Pindakaas (Dutch peanut butter) slathered on rosijnenbrood (raisin bread) was a favorite, occasionally mixed with hazelnut paste or even some hagelslag (chocolate sprinkles) sprinkled on top. Of course, hagelslag on its own with a schmear of fresh farm butter was mighty fine. That’s how the Dutch eat it.
Just remembering the veritable “spread” (quite literally) of items to slather on bread is enough to make my mouth water. Aside from the peanut butter and hazelnut paste, jams and jellies of every fruit and hue awaited. Appelstroop (apple syrup), in particular, was divine drizzled on…well, just about anything.
In fact some folks find appelstroop pairs nicely with Poffertjes. These small, fluffy, spongy buckwheat pancakes are traditionally served with butter and powdered sugar. You can find them at Albert Cuyp too. There’s something mesmerizing about standing in front of the poffertje booth while someone – often dressed in a kitschy “old” Dutch costume – whips up your warm and wonderful treat.
If your stomach is starting to churn while reading this, consider a pot of tea and a few hopjes (coffee drops) or salty licorice drops to soothe your digestive woes. Just be warned that the plethora of licorice (black only) choices might give you a headache. Coins, cats, diamonds and windmills: the shapes alone are enough to make your head spin.
Soft or hard? Salty or sweet? Slightly salty or pucker-your-lips salty? Whichever direction you lean, there is a licorice for your liking. Most folks have a love-hate relationship with licorice. I fall solidly on the love-it end of the spectrum which thrilled the “Oma” (grandma) whose home I stayed in and reminded my mother of my own grandmother who was also fond of black licorice.
One of my favorite dishes that Oma made during my semester abroad was a fantastic erwentensoep or pea soup. She always reminded me that it wasn’t “echte” (real) erwentesoep unless you could stand your spoon upright in it. Chunky and chock-filled with peas, carrots, pork and sausage, this soup was the full-meal deal.
Something else I grew to love and long for once I left Holland, was Indonesian food. You could find all sorts of Indonesian snacks, even in vending machines. Little fried balls of this and noodle dishes of that.
Can’t decide? Then get thee some rijstafel or rice table: and endless variety (sometimes as many as forty different dishes) of sates, noodles, meats, fish, and pickled veggies all served with rice.
On my recent trip, I found out that there was Indonesian take-out just a half a block from my B&B. It was amazingly tasty and brought tears to my eyes as I stuffed myself, and reminisced about rijstafel of days gone by, while looking out to the rooftops of Amsterdam from my top-floor B&B room.
Oh for heaven’s sake, I haven’t even dipped into descriptions of the liquid refreshments. The Dutch are renowned for their beer and jenever (Dutch gin). I’m not much of a beer drinker (my loss, I’m sure, given the Dutch reputation for a good brew), but I had a special fondness for Korewijn, which is a jenever that is aged for several years in oak casks. It is smooth and a lovely tummy warmer after an icy bike ride home.
On New Year’s Day, the Queen’s birthday and a few assorted holidays, ‘Advocaat’ was also popular. Advocaat is a rich and creamy liqueur made from eggs, sugar and brandy. It has a smooth, custard-like flavor. Occasionally it’s so thick that it’s eaten with a spoon. My Oma served it with a touch of whipped cream and some powdered chocolate.
For the non-drinkers amongst you this brings us to the final Dutch foodie lust item on my list: chocolate. Droste cocoa, with whole milk, fresh of the stove was a near daily indulgence, particularly during the long cold winter of 1980 when I lived in the Netherlands. After growing up on Nestle, I can tell you that once I sipped on deep, dark, delicious Droste it was impossible to go back.
Chocolate took many other forms too. Aside from the Hagelslag mentioned earlier there were many shops with enormous assortments of homemade confections. My love affair with high quality chocolate began right then and there.
Let’s just say that during my three-day stay, I managed to check off a fair number of items from my list of much-missed treats. And, if your pants are feeling a bit tighter after reading this post, you now understand why I gained twenty pounds in the nine months I lived in Amsterdam. Smakelijk eten (Tasty eating)!
Looking for more lekkere (yummy) treats? Check out Wanderfood Wednesday!