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What I remember about waiting to meet my daughter at the orphanage

October 21, 2016 by Beth Shepherd

chair and phone

As an adoptive parent, meeting the child who might become your child, is an epic moment. There’s no way to describe the feeling, built from years of yearning, anticipation and uncertainty. And I had already experienced this moment before. Twice. Two times, yet no child. So you can imagine—this journey—half-way around the world to visit yet another baby at an orphanage, was fraught with tension. What if this child had additional medical conditions beyond the scope of what we felt we could manage? What if we encountered paperwork snafus and were unable to register our intent to adopt this child? What if it all fell through in the end?

You might think we were just overly nervous first-time prospective parents. Certainly this was true. I don’t know a single adoptive parent who doesn’t worry about the same questions we worried about. But in our case, there was an additional albatross around our necks. We’d been in this exact place in the process before, and knew meeting a child might not turn out the way we’d hoped. Because, for us, it hadn’t.

In fact when we visited Armenia’s Ministry of Justice department to file the necessary paperwork to meet this baby, the head of the department, Mr. S, shook his head and uttered, “Ohhh…Shepherds” in his deep baritone voice. This was our third visit to his office. Three times, because on our second trip to Armenia to meet the previous child, we found out that one of us would have to come back—one month later. Unbelievably, the child we’d hoped to register our intent to adopt on that trip, was not yet “off the database” meaning available for adoption by families outside the country.

These circumstances set the tone for the day and our moods. Pensive. Anxious.

waiting at orphanage

I remember how I felt when my husband and I sat in that room, five years ago, like it was yesterday. I remember the couch, covered with a white, fringed throw, soft cushions, like my grandmother’s sofa. I remember looking around the room, memorizing every detail. The closet that stood ajar, every angle off, like a scene from a Dr. Suess’s book.

closet

The floor, weathered from thousands of steps back and forth through this same room, where we sat. Waiting. Outside the window, the sun was shining, but I couldn’t stop thinking about life inside, the life a child would have if this were their “forever home.”

floor in orphanage

By this time I’d already been on the receiving end of hate mail on my blog, from people—one in particular—who felt non-Armenian families had no business adopting an Armenian child and taking that child from their birth family, culture, and country. I understand this and truly believe the first choice should always be to keep families together, whenever possible. But sometimes circumstances are such that it’s simply not possible, not for the immediate family and sometimes not even for the extended family. Angry commenters claimed children were “better off” remaining in the country of their birth, even if it meant they’d grow up in an orphanage.

window

This orphanage, along with the other two I’ve seen in Armenia, is run by caring people. The buildings and furniture might not be in the best shape but the orphanages are clean and tidy. Children have their own beds. Diapers, while in short supply, are changed regularly as are the children’s clothes. Nannies give the kids attention, as best they can, given the number of children in their care. I know they form attachments, especially to some of the children, and I can only imagine how heartbreaking it must be when children they’ve cared for leave. But I also know how much they want each of these kids to find a home, because no matter how good an orphanage may be, it is still an orphanage.

office desk

I stared at the desk, where the head nurse sat, a cup of tea abandoned, notebooks sitting off to the side, notebooks where she kept records of the children, their height and weight, any illnesses they had, little details. While I waited I thought about all the details we westerners log, the pictures we take, the celebrations we hold as we keep tabs on our kids’ development: when they held their head up by themselves or roll over for the first time, how old they were when they got their first tooth or haircut, when they said ‘Mama’ for the first time. I thought about how a child in an orphanage might never know any of these details, might not have a single photo of themselves as a baby. I thought about how these kids would reach milestones that might be barely noticed and rarely remembered, that they might never have a single keepsake or memento from these “firsts.”

Sitting in this room, taking it all in, I was really struck by how this could change the course of an entire life and create challenges, some that may never be overcome, memories they can’t fully express that might haunt them and influence their personality, habits, relationships, their ability to bond.

tea cup

We waited a long time before a nanny appeared at the door, holding a baby. I sprang from the couch. Our translator walked over to the nanny and I could tell from her gestures and demeanor, something was wrong. In staccato Armenian words I did not understand she spoke with the nanny who then turned and left with the baby. What had just happened we asked? Our translator explained. She brought the wrong baby.

door

I wilted with despair even as we were assured that our baby did indeed exist. We paced the floor, waited and waited. At long last another nanny appeared at the door, holding a different baby. And in mere moments, there she was, in our arms for the first time.

orphanage meeting

It’s all about the journey,

Beth

Filed Under: Adoption Tagged With: Armenia, orphanage

Four reasons why I blog

January 27, 2016 by Beth Shepherd

Seven years ago I started my blog as a way to chronicle our journey to parenthood. I also hoped my posts might encourage intrepid travelers to consider a trip to Armenia, an ancient, beautiful and fascinating country few know much about. There wasn’t any other agenda. I knew readers might agree, or disagree, with my decision to adopt, adopt internationally and adopt from Armenia.

world

But even though my destination was parenthood, I did–and still do–want to travel more. That’s why I was thrilled my blog would be hosted on Wanderlust and Lipstick. Maybe my blog would lead me to other like-minded people? Maybe those people would have connections? Maybe I would get to go places? That’s what I hoped.

Now that I have some experience under my belt, I can say with certainty, there are four reasons why I blog:

Accountability: There is something about having an audience that, for me, is a real motivator. I’ve always been impressed with people who faithfully journal, privately and independently, amassing volumes filled with thoughts about their daily lives. I am not one of those people. However, I am a meet deadlines sort of gal, and knowing I should publish at least once a week (ideally more) helps me get the lead out.

Visibility: Back to that audience. I admit it, my brain lights up in a thousand different ways when I see my writing and photography out there on the internet!  It feels good. Many of my photos, recipes and travel experiences will never see the light of day, but blogging gives me a chance to share some of it. I like sharing what I do with others, and I like the recognition.

Community: While we’re on sharing, there is something kinda wonderful about the online community. It is true, I’ve had my share of trolls and haters. They are an unfortunate reality of life on the Internet. But for the most part I’ve met really incredible people through blogging and have reconnected with others via social media.

Opportunity: Which brings me to opportunity. Blogging has introduced me to some amazing opportunities. Opportunities to meet people. Opportunities to showcase my love of writing and photography. And, yes, a few opportunities to travel and I want more of that!

My blog gets me going–in every way. How about you? Where do you want to go–literally and metaphorically?

It’s all about the journey,

Beth

Filed Under: Photography, Travel Tagged With: Armenia, blog

Kim Kardashian visits Armenia: Five posts she should read

April 10, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Word on the street is that Kim Kardashian, her sister Kloe and two cousins are visiting their motherland. Bari Galust, Kim. Welcome to Armenia!

Airport Welcome to Armenia

1. Since you have your daughter North along for the trip, you’ll definitely want to read my post about sightseeing in Yerevan with an infant.

Children's Museum Yerevan

2. I’m not sure how long your family plans to stay in Armenia, but if you are there on April 24th you can participate in the 100th Anniversary of the Armenian Genocide. Here’s a great article from the New York Times that describes what happened in 1915. Definitely go see Tsitsernakaberd and visit the Armenian Genocide Museum. I wrote about my visit in this post.

Genocide Memorial in Yerevan

3. Of course, you must try Lahmajun. I wrote about Mer Taghe, my favorite spot in Yerevan to enjoy Armenian pizza. And if you want some privacy from the paparazzi, they even have take-out.

Armenian pizza

4. And, to work off the many calories consumed on your trip (oh-how-I-know), a few treks up and down the Cascades will help keep you fit and in fine curvy form. I wrote about all 572 steps in this post.

The Cascade and Cafesjian Center for the Arts

5. Finally, because I know you LOVE to shop, especially for your daughter, check out my post this week about the Sharan Crafts Center. Just leave a few things for the rest of us.

Little Bird Sharan dress

Have a great trip, Kim!

If you want to read more about Armenia, follow–Pampers and Pakhlava. You can find me on Facebook, Twitter or RSS/email.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Armenia Tagged With: Armenia

Five things I miss about TRAVEL when I’m home

January 22, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

The road less traveled is the road I’d like to be on. I miss traveling and wish I could take trips more often. Remembering places we’ve been makes me happy, and dreaming about the places I’d like to go stirs my imagination. And I love hearing friends tell stories of  their journeys, envious though I might be.

Here are a few things–and there are many more–I miss about travel:

1. Adventure: Hearing monks chant in Tibet and seeing the Mt. Everest are the types of adventures I wish I could have more of. Finding myself in unfamiliar settings, being surrounded by people speaking another language, not knowing what surprises might lie around the corner–I love it all. I’ve probably been to more places than the average person, but far fewer than many travelers I know. After all, this blog is hosted on a travel website! It’s hard not to feel envious when I scan blog posts and read travel memoirs. So when people ask why we chose to adopt from Armenia well, for one–duh–travel!

17,000 feet on Mt. Everest

2. Trying new food! Whether it’s yak lung in Tibet or Lahmajun in Armenia (oh Lahmajun, how I miss thee), enjoying unfamiliar cuisine is thrilling to me. Shave ice in Hawaii, Gouda cheese in Amsterdam, champagne in Epernay. Stinky tofu might not go down in the record books as a food I’d try again, but telling the story of Big Papa’s memorable stinky tofu encounter always makes me laugh. Or remembering our lunch with a lama–and being served hot water instead of tea. Even the Parisien waiter who stiffed us by giving us change in foreign currency from around the world, not Euros, on our first trip together to France–I’ve filed him in my travel memories under food.

Armenian pizza

3. Meeting people: I have met some really fabulous people while traveling, like Sergei, our favorite Armenian painter whose artwork is on the wall in nearly every room of our house. Or my dear friend Hripsime who lives in the city where my daughter was born. Even fleeting encounters have turned into longer correspondence, like Karla–the incredible photographer I met while whale watching in Baja. And I still think about how lucky I was to run into two female Swedish travelers while camping in Matala, Greece. They were my companions for only a few days, but I got to see and do things I otherwise might not have traveling solo on a Greek island.

Sergei the painter

4. Stepping out of my comfort zone: Shop at the same grocery store, drive familiar routes–the habits and rhythm of my days at home, while enjoyable, don”t deviate much. When I’m traveling, every day is a new opportunity to do something different, see something I’ve never seen before, get lost, haggle, discover something–about a new place or about myself. It’s fun to shake things up a bit, good for the brain and good for the soul. If we hadn’t turned left at that corner, we never would have found the perfect little park for having lunch. If we’d stopped before the last switch on that trail, we would have missed the mind-blowing view.

Monk shoes

5. Disconnecting: In our uber-connected first world lives, we are always in touch. Sure there’s something comforting about knowing I can see a familiar face on Facebook with one click on my keyboard, but when I travel I find it freeing to be “out of touch.” I can’t check my email at 17,00 feet in Tibet and you know what, I don’t even want to. It’s a relief to put the news aside for a few days, a few weeks, and not feel compelled, compulsive even, about checking in on social media. My senses awaken and suddenly I’m in touch with so much more–the world outside.

Beach feet

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Armenia, Hawaii, Tibet

Merry Armenian Christmas

January 5, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

To my friends here in the U.S., and overseas, who celebrate Armenian Christmas on January 6: Շնորհավոր Ամանոր և Սուրբ Ծնունդ (Shnorhavor Amanor yev Surb Tznund).

Armenian Christmas costume

In her Armenian costume

Whether you celebrate holidays the Armenian way or with your own cultural and seasonal flair:

Merry Christmas

and

Happy New Year from Pampers and Pakhlava

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Armenia, Holiday Tagged With: Armenia, Armenian Christmas

Gifts from Armenia

November 13, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

“I am not the same

having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.”

~Mary Anne Radmacher

Gifts from Armenia

Last week a very special package arrived at our house. Inside were gifts from Armenia: a few items for our dining room, hand-made wooden earrings, a lovely jewelry box and an amazing traditional Armenian costume, designed with our Little Bird in mind. I could barely contain my excitement–it was like having Christmas and birthday celebrations all rolled into one.

I will always hold Armenia close to my heart, like no other place I’ve ever traveled to. My daughter was born in the shadow of her mountains. We’ve graced our tiny home with paintings and memorabilia from our trips, but much of the time, this country which cradles the history and culture of our daughter’s beginnings, seems impossibly far away.

Runner from Armenia

Two table runners and a two place mats now grace our dining room, and when I walk past them, I smile. The amazing part is how closely the traditionally-styled table runners match the colors of our dining room. Burgundy, sage green, accents of coral, cream and gold. It was if my dear friend had been standing right there when she chose them for us.

Armenian table runner and wood jewelry boxClose-up of table runner

CarpetOur dining room rug

There are days when my longing to be there is palpable. And that is why having a bit of —there–here, warms my heart.

With love and gratitude to H-jan and V. Gifts, Part II, coming soon!

Take the road less traveled,

Beth

Filed Under: Armenia Tagged With: Armenia, gifts

Our family turns 2!

March 22, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

March 22, 2012

Gyumri, Armenia

Mother Armenia Gyumri

Snow and ice covered the ground and temperatures hovered near zero. We spent the morning trying to distract our minds from the wait, the wait to find out if the judge would grant us permission to adopt one tiny 11-month-old baby girl.

Our driver took us to see Mother Armenia. Fitting considering the circumstances.  We climbed the stairs and stood in her shadow. All of Gyumri lay spread out in the distance. We were, literally and figuratively, standing on the precipice of parenthood.

It felt surreal then and it feels surreal now when I remember that day, and everything that led up to that day. Waiting, waiting, waiting. Years of waiting.

Then we got the news. Tears of joy? Yes, absolutely. But also relief, bone-deep relief that we were–finally–parents. And some sadness too, that my father (who passed away, literally two months to the day and hour we became parents) would never know how everything came together, would never meet his granddaughter nor see us as a family.

I also thought about how this decision would impact our daughter–our daughter–sometimes I still marvel at those words. Too young to understand that we were about to become a family, these two people who spent a few weeks playing with her.  Strangers, really, who were committing to a lifetime of nurturing and guiding her…as best we could.

Family

Here we are, two years later. Older, grayer (though leaner and more fit!), maybe a tad wiser, more lines from the stress and frustration that comes with parenthood. How do we handle this? What do we do about that? Navigating things we never dreamed of when we thought about what it would be like to bring a child into our lives.

And here she is. Baby Bird is no longer a baby, but a toddler, growing bigger, stumbling and learning, thriving. Bringing laughter and discovery into our home in ways we never imagined.

The three of us 2014March 22, 2014

Happy Birthday to us–Our family turns 2!

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Family Tagged With: Armenia, birthday, court, Family

Happy Armenian Christmas

January 6, 2014 by Beth Shepherd

 Armenian Christmas by Sareen Akharjalian

Armenian Christmas cartoon by Sareen Akharjalian

Happy Armenian Christmas! Why is it that Armenians celebrate Christmas on January 6, rather than on December 25th with the rest of the (Christian) world? Since the exact date of Christ’s birth had not been established (nor recorded in the Gospels), all Christian churches celebrated Christ’s birth on January 6th until the fourth century.

According to Catholic sources, the date was changed from January 6th to December 25th to override a pagan feast dedicated to the birth of the Sun which was celebrated on December 25th (which Christians, at that time, also observed). In an effort to subdue pagan practice, the church hierarchy designated December 25th as the official date of Christmas and January 6th as the feast of Epiphany.

Because there were no such pagan practices in Armenia, the country was not affected by this change. Remaining faithful to the traditions of their forefathers, Armenians continue to celebrate Christmas on January 6th.

In Armenia, the Christmas Eve meal often includes dishes such as rice, fish, a yogurt-wheat soup called tanabur. Desserts include dried fruits, nuts, and rojik (whole shelled walnuts threaded on a string and encased in grape jelly), bastukh (a paper-like dessert made of grape jelly, cornstarch and flour). And most houses are ready with lots of food and sweets because anyone might knock on the door and come in for a party!

Big Papa, Baby Bird and I celebrated with relatives last night (it was already January 6 in Armenia since they are 12 hours ahead of Seattle time). We lit our Armenian (tuff) candle and filled our table (and our bellies) with dried fruit (including dried apricots we brought back from Armenia…delicious), nuts, hummus, pomegranates, dolma and pakhlava–of course! And we toasted to our daughter’s homeland with a bit of bubbly mixed with Armenian pomegranate wine.

Armenian Christmas feast

Revah Pomegranate wine

 

Filed Under: Armenia, Holiday Tagged With: Armenia, Christian, Christmas, January 6, ReVah Pomegranate Wine, Sareen Akharjalian, tuff

Armenian Angels in the Sunlight

August 15, 2013 by Beth Shepherd

We shall find peace. We shall hear angels.

We shall see the sky sparkling with diamonds.

~Anton Chekhov

Hoolahooping

Two angels in the sunlight

Two angels in the sunlight and a big pink ball

My angel in the sunlight

Want to see more angelic shots? Check out Delicious Baby Photo Friday!

Filed Under: Adoption Tagged With: angels, Anton Chekov, Armenia, Armenian

Three girls from Gyumri

November 14, 2012 by Beth Shepherd

Three girls from Gyumri

A little over a month ago, Big Papa, Baby Bird and I took a trip to the east coast to visit our families. One of the highlights of our trip was a rendezvous with two of Baby Bird’s “sisters” from the children’s home in Gyumri, Armenia where she lived for the first year of her life. Both moms drove with their daughters, for nearly five hours, to meet up with us in Pittsburgh and share a bit of time together.

I have been email pals with these girls’ moms for almost four years, our exchanges so frequent and intimate I count them as good friends. They are amongst a small cadre of adoptive moms who have remained by my virtual side from the beginning.  If things had gone as planned, the three of us would have become parents around the same time. For Big Papa and me, things didn’t go as planned. During the dark days of our adoption journey, these moms listened to me, consoled me and rooted for me, until—finally—I became a mama too.

Amazingly, one of the two moms grew up in the Seattle area and, in a twist of unbelievable serendipity, she was in Armenia to register her daughter’s adoption at the very same time I was in Armenia to register an adoption that ultimately fell through. We sat side-by-side in the Ministry of Justice office, tears running down our faces, as we formally expressed our intent to adopt.  A few days later, during that same trip, we toasted with Armenian brandy and enjoyed an unforgettable meal at a restaurant in Yerevan.

Months passed. She became a mom. I didn’t.

But here’s the irony and the beauty of this story. If things had gone as planned, Baby Bird would not be my daughter, I would not be the mother of a girl from Gyumri, and the three of us would not share this additional–and somewhat unusual–bond.

Gyumri holds a special place in my heart. The brown barren hills and mountains that surround the ancient city remind me of the landscapes in the eastern part of the state where I live. I admire the tenacity of the people who call this rugged land home, and I see this same trait in my daughter.

We tell Baby Bird her story over and over, and show her pictures: pictures that describe where she was born, the people who cared for her, and what the country of her birth is like. But it will be years before she truly understands. And while I show her pictures of her Gyumri sisters, even more years may pass before she fully comprehends that three girls–who spent their first year in a children’s home half way around the world –laughed and ran and played together in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

For me, the hours spent in each other’s company passed much too quickly. I’m sure there will be opportunities for us to meet again in the years ahead, and I look forward to those times because I hope that, one day, our girls might feel inspired to forge their own friendship…just like their mamas did. No matter where they may travel in life, and no matter who they become, our three girls were Gyumri girls first and will always carry a bit of Gyumri with them.

Filed Under: Adoption, Travel Tagged With: Armenia, Gyumri

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Some might fend off a mid-life crisis by leaving the comforts of their corporate salary to jet off to a deserted island. Others might buy a Jaguar. I’ve chosen to dive head-long into my 50s and beyond by becoming a first-time parent. At any given moment you might find me holding a camera, a spade, a spatula or a suitcase. Or my little girl's hand. Adopted from Armenia, she puts the Pampers and Paklava into my life.

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