Mushurba – The golden cup of Gyumri

March 5, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

When I saw this photo of a giant mushurba statue in Gyumri, I was dismayed. Despite all the photos I took to remember the city, how did I miss this? I felt a better when I read it hadn’t been installed until 2013. We visited in 2011 and 2012.

Arman Musikyan, Wikimedia.

A mushurba is a cup–distinctive to Gyumri, Armenia–with two chambers, made from copper or silver. As you sip, you’ll hear the sound of gurgling water. The sound results from he intentional design of the cup.

From what I understand, the way it works is by preventing air from coming out when water is poured into the cup. This creates bubbles which, in turn, make he sound of a burbling brook.We were told the design of the mushurba helps keep the temperature of the liquid inside stable.I’ve also heard that in the 21st century there was a local tradition with the host presenting a mushurba to guests.

Without a doubt, the mushurba is a symbol unique to Gyumri, which is why we really wanted to locate one to take home with us. Our translator helped us locate a gift shop on the pedestrian shopping street in downtown Gyumri where we could purchase our gurgling cup. The shopkeeper was so sweet and poured water in our cup so that we knew we were getting the real deal.

Our mushurba is one of the souvenirs from our travels, I treasure the most. I look forward to sharing the tradition of this special golden cup with our daughter as she grows up.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Harbingers of Spring

February 27, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Just when I feel I can’t take another day of dreary gray, I see them. Little sprigs of brilliant green poking out from the wet earth. Crocus! Spring is on its way. Although March 20, the official first day of spring, lies several weeks away, the signs that winter is moving on are everywhere (at least in Seattle!). A mere week later, my crocus are adorned with purple and white flower heads.

Hellebore too, tight purple and pink buds cover the plants, waiting for just the right moment to open. Known as the Lenten rose, Helleborus Orientalis, begin blooming in February, and are true harbingers of spring. I love the intense color they bring to dark corners in the garden where, weeks earlier, there was none.

My Virburnum Mariesii is filled with tiny flower buds. Soon they will flower, prolific and white, and my lovely shrub will look as though it were covered in snow. Nearby, delicate Epimedum–fairy wings–float in the air on stems so tiny you truly think they are flying.

I love this time of year when my garden is filled with magic. I am always in awe: How is it that each leaf, each bud, each flower knows exactly what it is meant to do? For me therein lies the wonder and the beauty of nature.

Each leaf,
each blade of grass
vies for attention.
Even weeds
carry tiny blossoms
to astonish us.

– Marianne Poloskey, Sunday in Spring

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Five jaw-droppingly gorgeous gardens

February 25, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Many of my readers know gardening is a passion of mine, so I’m sure it comes as no surprise that I love to explore gardens and parks when I travel. My ‘Garden Bucket List’ is is much longer than what I’ll be able to see in my lifetime, but as spring breathes new life into the flora of our world, I’d like to share five of the gorgeous gardens I’ve had the pleasure to visit.

Kauai’s Limahuli Garden and Preserve was breathtaking. It’s located at the end of the road (literally) on the north shore of Hawaii. As I toured the amazingly diverse gardens, I felt like I got a glimpse of what the Hawaiian islands looked like a long time ago. Dense greenery on the lower levels of the park are coupled with spectacular views of the ocean from the top of the hill. Limahuli is also filled with information about native Hawaiian plants and, sadly, invasive plants that are taking over tropical paradise. In the shadow of the Napali coast mountains, Limahuli is well worth a visit if you are on Kauai.

Ritan Park, my favorite park in Beijing was stunning, but in a different way than most of the other parks I saw there, like the Temple of Heaven or Beihai, which were so expansive it was hard to comprehend their size and grandeur. Ritan, with its stone boat cafe, masses of lily pads and weeping willow trees was intimate and accessible, the perfect spot to sit and meditate. Plus, it’s only a stone’s throw away from the Silk Market, if you’re in Beijing and need a break from the craziness. Such a contrast!

Monet’s Giverny was one of the gardens on my bucket list. While the crowds were a bit overwhelming, I feel so fortunate I was finally able to visit when we were in France a few years ago. Throngs aside, the gardens are spectacularly beautiful. Monet’s house, too, was a festival of color. I loved the bright green window shutters adorning the outside of his home. And if his kitchen, bright-as-the-sun yellow–and I mean all yellow, every last thing–doesn’t perk you up, nothing will.

Of course, one cannot visit Paris without wandering through the Jardin des Tuileries. The gardens have a certain je ne sais quois that makes them feel oh-so-French. Whether you’re meandering along the grand promenade passing by flower gardens and manicured shrubbery, sitting at one of the cafes in the park sipping wine and nibbling French cheese, or watching the sunset cast orange hues on the fountains, the Tuileries are not to be missed.

A trip to London would be remiss without a stroll through Kensington Gardens. Magnificent trees, arbors, flower beds…and a royal palace! So elegant and serene. I’ve seen pictures of the park fully decked out in its green-leafed glory, but even when the trees were bare in late March, Kensington was still lovely and peaceful, more so I thought than its famous next door neighbor, Hyde Park.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Kids on Kauai: 8 things to do rain or shine

February 20, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

A year ago, we vacationed on Kauai. We rented a house on the north shore near the town of Kilauea.

I’d like to say we spent the entire trip sunning ourselves on a sandy beach, but sun was a scarce commodity. Big Papa would remind me: Well, we are staying within a few miles of the rainiest spot on earth.

But the ocean was–right there–as were turtles, so I am fondly reminiscing. Plus, Big Papa got me a tropical bouquet for Valentine’s Day this year with a few of these:

And these…so I’ve been missing Kauai.

This was Little Bird’s first trip to the tropics. For a 2-1/2 year old, island life is grand. Here are 8 of her favorite things to do on the island of Kauai, rain or shine.

1. Ride the mini-carousel in Hanalei. We did this several times during a downpour. Bring lots of quarters.

2. Eat shave ice. It’s extravagant, colorful and yummy. This monster cup is from Ono Ono in Kapa’a.

3. Go to the beach. Anini Beach is awesome for Keiki–little ones. And there are turtles.

4. Chase chickens. They are everywhere, so why not?

5. Hop aboard the Kauai Plantation Railway. Beautiful farmland, a train stop to check out goats and pigs. Samples tasty rum back at the depot. Something for all ages.

6. Kanoodle with the babysitter. First time we’ve ever had someone sit for Little Bird on vacation. Sharon was the bomb. Arrived with a suitcase full of fun. Ardea loved her. Best $ Mama and Dada spent!

7. Luxuriate in the outdoor shower. This was Mama and Little Bird’s special together time every day. We had a blast.

8. Which brings us to the BEST thing of all to do on Kauai. Run NAKED as much as possible. Who cares about free-range chickens? Free-range kids are where it’s at.

Rain or shine, run wild, run free. Be a kid on Kauai.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Winter in Armenia

February 18, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Seasonally, Armenia excels in extremes. In the winter it is cold. Very, very cold. And in the summer it is hot. Very, very hot.

When Seattle gets chilly, we always say, “Well, if we were in Armenia, it would be 20 degrees colder.” Even in Spring (our last trip was late March), temperatures can easily dip below zero (Fahrenheit) at night.

But there is a certain stark loveliness when the ground pulls a blanket of white over itself, the trees show off their beautiful bones and the air is crisp and clear. Here are some photographs I took that give you an idea of what winter in Armenia looks like.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Love and loss on Valentine’s Day

February 14, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

In memory of my sister Caren: April 15, 1962-February 14, 2013

My sister died on Valentine’s Day. Not that there is a good day to die, but when loss falls near a holiday or any other noteworthy day in your life, it’s hard to separate public celebrations from private grieving.

Here are a few ideas to refashion a holiday, and include the remembrance of someone you loved and lost:

Write a letter
Light a candle
Tell someone about them
Donate money in their name
Volunteer at a charity they would have liked
Do something you loved to do together on that day
Tell a funny story about them
Create an online tribute or chat about them online
Say a prayer
Do a few acts of kindness
Set aside time private time to grieve
Listen to music they liked
Plant something–when Big Papa’s cat Cleo died, we buried her in the garden and planted Bleeding Heart around her
Cook or bake something they enjoyed or you enjoyed together–I make Moosewood Mushroom Barley Soup every year on the anniversary of my friend Dee’s death

As for me, it is a surreal feeling to go from having one sibling, to none. Even though Caren had cancer twice as a child, and a lifetime of health challenges, she always managed to pull through. Part of me was convinced she always would. But this time, she didn’t.

On this Valentine’s Day, to commemorate my sister, I’d like to share my favorite version of her favorite song.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Love is in the air

February 11, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Love is in the air everywhere I look around
Love is in the air every sight and every sound

~Tom Jones, Love is in the Air

‘Tis the season when it’s not just Hallmark searching for love. My bird friends have also begun their early spring mating rituals. House wrens are tweeting their courtship serenades, ducks are building their nests, finches are pondering a selection of birdhouses, and male hummingbirds are showing off their flights of fancy as they climb up to 130 feet into the air, dive to the ground and then swoop back into the stratosphere. Here are a few photographs I’ve taken when I’ve been lucky enough to capture bird pairs. Love is in the air.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Armenian brandy

February 5, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

In my opinion, unless you’re a teetotaler, you can’t visit Armenia without bringing home a bottle of brandy. I’ve written posts about using our ArArAt brandy to make Brandied Cherries, and commented that it was our beverage of choice when we’ve celebrated adoption milestones (before we adopted and since).

On our last trip in 2012, I was so committed to bringing a bottle back that I frantically repacked our carry-on bag at Heathrow Airport so we could check through one more bag with our duty-free 20-year ArArAt brandy inside. Otherwise our precious cargo would have wound up in the in the dumpster rather than at our home. Who knew? Even duty free wasn’t safe (if it wasn’t EU).

But–until now–I haven’t written much about the brandy itself. Armenian brandy is made from white grapes and spring water according to a traditional method. Depending on how long it’s aged and where the grapes and spring water are sourced, every brandy has its own distinct color, aroma and flavor. When making Armenian brandy, only endemic grape varietals are used, such as Voskehat, Garan Dmak, and Kangun.

I also want to point out that while all cognac is brandy, all brandies are not cognac. Legally, a brandy cannot be called ‘cognac,’ unless it was produced in the Cognac region of France. However, in 1900 Armenian brandy won the legal right to be labeled cognac after it won the Grand-prix award at the Universal Expo of Paris. Although calling Armenian brandy cognac is no longer legal (and ceased to be the case after WWII), you will still hear hear Armenian brandy being referred to as cognac in Armenia, Russia and other former Soviet Union countries.

The roots of the Yerevan Brandy Company, where ArArAt brandy is made, go back to 1887 when Nerses Tairian, a merchant who built the first wine and brandy factory in Armenia. In 1899 the company was acquired by a Russian industrial company “Shustov and Sons.” At the beginning of the 20th century “Shustov and Sons” acquired the status of Armenian brandy supplier to the court of His Imperial Majesty Nicholas II.

The first bottle we brought home was ArArAt 15 year Prazdnichny made by the Yerevan Brandy Company. It was delicious. Unfortunately, it was so good that it is now gone, and I’m not sure they even make this particular brandy anymore because it isn’t listed on their website.

Next we brought home another ArArAt, also aged 15 years, but called Vaspurakan, which is Armenian for “noble country.” This brandy, as described on the company’s website: Intense amber color with a tinge of “old gold”. Bright, elegant and complex aroma with shades of spices, oak bark and dried fruit. At the end one can feel tinges of balm. Rich, complex, complete, astonishingly mild and rounded taste. Light sharpness at the end is smoothed by clearly expressed sweet notes. Long and noble aftertaste.

I heartily agree with their description. We have really enjoyed it but, as you can see, we have a only a few shots remaining. So sad.

Our sole remaining bottle is Ararat Nairi, aged 20 years. The Nairi people inhabited the Kingdom of Urartu that stretched along the shores of Lake Van, which is now the largest lake in Turkey. According to ArArAt, this brandy is: Beautiful deep dark amber color. Pleasing glow and spotless transparency. Harmonious, silky, complex and refined texture. Balsamic fragrance and transition to cedar tones. Rich and complex taste with a pleasant long-lasting aftertaste. Refined combination of fried bread and cloves is counterbalanced by tinges of cinnamon and honey.

Nairi sounds divine. I can’t wait to try it, except that it is our very last bottle of Armenian brandy.

One thing I’ve never done is take a tour of the Yerevan Brandy Company, and I’d really like to. I am also interested in broadening my Armenian brandy horizons by trying Amenian brandy made by other companies–Yerevan Brandy Company isn’t the only maker of brandy in Armenia.. With that in mind, and our supply dwindling, maybe it’s time to go back and get more.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

12th Man Brew

January 30, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Most of my friends know: a) I don’t watch sports, b) I don’t drink beer. You might wonder why I’ve written a post about a beer dedicated to the fans of a football team?

Here’s why. The Seahawks are in the Superbowl–again. All of Seattle is decked out in blue and green. Everywhere you look there are 12th man flags. This is why I’ve been feeling a bit like Scrooge of the Emerald City. So when I saw Dick’s Brewing Company’s 12 Man Pale Ale, I had to buy a case. Plus it was $4.99 at the Grocery Outlet, for a case of 12 (naturally!). How could I go wrong?

Dick’s Brewing Company describes 12 Man Pale Ale as follows:

A mild and pleasant ale with a touch of residual sweetness. 12 Man Pale Ale is a solid, easy drinking beer that goes down smooth but doesn’t sacrifice on flavor. Caramel and Munich specialty malts are combined with premium northwest 2-row malted barley to create a light copper color. We add just enough hops for a delicate bitterness, subdued hop flavor and a nice aroma. Fermentation with our house yeast creates a fine English style ale approachable by the beer drinking Sports Fan.

Of course I also needed input from Big Papa, my resident beer afficianado. Tasting notes per Big Papa (without having read Dick’s notes first):

Light bitter aroma. Pleasantly hoppy. A hint of citrus. Light on the palate. Hoppy finish. A tad effervescent (as one might expect with a fermented beverage). Pleasantly refreshing.

So drink up Seahawks fans! Happy Superbowl–and GO HAWKS!

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Street art in Paris: La Butte aux Cailles

January 28, 2015 by Beth Shepherd

Most tourists interested in Parisian art head to the Louvre, the Pompidou Center or Musee d’Orsay, but you can find some great art right in the streets of Paris. La Butte aux Cailles, in the 13th arrondissement, is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, and walk the quiet cobbled streets filled with art. La Butte aux Cailles is quite different from most neighborhoods in Paris. Quaint and quirky, nestled on a hilltop south of Paris, La Butte aux Cailles–or Quail Hill–was named after Pierre Caille, a former landowner in 1543.

Centuries ago, the River Bièvre flowed through this tiny village filled with farms and windmills. During the 17th century numerous industries, such as tanning, centered around the river which led to Butte aux Cailles. An unfortunate consequence of the dye factories was the River Bièvre turned into an open-air sewer. Slowly, streets were built that covered the river.

In more recent years, Butte aux Cailles attracted a great many artists including street art enthusiasts who have turned the district into an outdoor canvas. You’ll stumble across whimsical murals around nearly every serpentine corner.

La Butte aux Cailles was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris. I loved wandering the streets and seeing the amazing murals. tiny one-story houses. Plus, it really felt like we were in a village, not an enormous city.

If you happen to visit on a Tuesday, Friday or Sunday you can enjoy the outdoor market that takes place on Blvd. Auguste Blanqui. Or stop in Les Abeilles (21 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles) and try locally made honey. I’ve heard the owner Jacques Schakmundès, has been spearheaded the installation of beehives in many Parisian backyards and rooftops.

Pack a picnic lunch, or stop in one of the many cafes, and treat yourself to a side of Paris few visitors get to see. To reach lovely La Butte aux Cailles, take metro lines 5, 6 or 7 to Place d’Italie or Corvisart or the bus lines 57, 62, and 67.

Take the road less traveled, Beth