Sunny, cloudy, sunrise or sunset, I’m sure I’ve never seen a more beautiful urban river than the Seine, the je ne sais quois of stroll along its banks.
It’s all about the journey,
Beth
Five unique things to do with kids in Paris
Ride a hot air balloon? Jump on trampolines? In Paris?! Everyone knows Paris is the city for lovers, but you might be surprised to find out Paris is also a great city to explore with kids. You can always enjoy the classics: checking out the view from the Eiffel Tower, eating ice cream at Berthillon and gliding along the Seine on the Bateaux Mouches, but there are also few unique adventures that can be found in the City of Light. Here are four:
Jump to your heart’s content on trampolines in the Tuileries
If you have kids, the trampolines are one of the Tuileries best kept secrets. They are located at the end of the park closest to the Place de la Concorde entrance, Rue Rivoli side. I went to the Tuileries many times before I finally saw them. They are a fantastic place to take your kid and blow off some steam (Adult tip: cafes with wine not far away). Each five minutes on one of the six very springy trampolines costs 2.50 €. There is also a pretty fabulous playground in the park.
Look down at the Eiffel Tower from a hot air balloon in Parc André Citroën
Parc André Citroën is a public park located on the left bank of the river Seine in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. It is a bit out of the way but worth, because if the air is calm you can go for a ride in a hot air balloon. Balloon de Paris is not just any hot air balloon. It’s the biggest hot air balloon in the world! You get a unique bird’s eye view of the Eiffel Tower and all of Paris. Flights depend on weather conditions, so contact Ballon de Paris on the day of your visit. You can check out their website where they give weather conditions and let you know if you can go up in the balloon that day: www.ballondeparis.com or +33 1 44 26 20 00. Prices: Adult €12, Children (3-11) €6, Children under 3 ride free.
Fly though the air on a zip-line in Jardin du Luxembourg
Jardin du Luxembourg is one of my favorite gardens in Paris. Located between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, the gardens were built in the 1620s for Marie de Médici, Henri IV’s consort, because she was homesick for the Pitti Palace in Florence, where she had spent her childhood. Beautiful states, lawns, chestnut groves and the Fontaine de Medici aside, the garden also has an amazing children’s playground–Parc de Jeux–with one of the coolest zip-lines I’ve ever seen.
They do charge an entry fee (so worth it!): 2.60 € for kids over 18 months, 1.60 € for adults. The playground has it’s own toilets and covered seating area, and you can purchase drinks and snacks at the entrance as well. Parc de Jeux is located next to the Les Marrionettes du Luxembourg puppet theater and also one of the oldest carousels in the city. Be forewarned, Parc de Jeux does close promptly at 4:00 p.m. on weekdays.
Get creeped out looking at skulls in Les Catacombes
Want to go underground in Paris? Hang out with the bones of 6-million Parisians–now dead? If this sounds like it’s right up your kid’s creepy alley, then head over to Les Catacombes in the 14th arrondissement. Walking through the dark subterranean passages, you’ll learn fascinating–if not macabre–tidbits about the history of Paris and how this labyrinth of tunnels became the graveyard for millions of Paris’s former residents.
Kids under 18 are free but since lines can get very long, you might want to consider booking online. Make sure you print your tickets with the bar code before you go, otherwise you won’t get in. Not for young children or anyone with claustrophobia. Also no flash allowed so bring a camera with high ISO!
Pretend you’re a Roman gladiator at Arènes de Lutèce
Arènes de Lutèce is really cool. Hardly anyone, even Parisians, know about it, partly because it’s hidden in the 5th arrondissement. And I mean really hidden. The arena is semi-concealed by a few large apartment buildings situated around it. You could easily walk by the main entrance without noticing it. I did.
There are actually three different entrances but the easiest one to find is on Rue Monge. The entrance is at number 47 (on the left as you’re walking uphill on Rue Monge). You will think you’ve arrived at the entrance to one of the apartment buildings until you see the big cement gladiator helmet looming over the doorway. You found it!
Arènes de Lutèce has a long history (literally). The amphitheater was erected in the 1st century but then destroyed during invasions of the 3rd century. It was rediscovered in the mid-1800s when Rue Monge opened and the site of the site of the arena was uncovered by demolition work. But it wasn’t until 1917 that it was restored to its current state.
I’ve been to Arènes twice and it was quiet–a great place to eat your baguette and cheese while your kids run around. Occasionally you’ll find a children playing soccer, men flying kits or engrossed in a game bocce ball or a few people sitting on the stone bleachers. If you think you might enjoy a non-touristy spot with a history that dates back to the 1st century A.D., this is your place. Plus, how often do your kids get to pretend they’re gladiators in a real 2,000-year-old Roman arena?!
It’s all about the journey,
Beth
Favorite Things: Parisian Cafés
Parisian cafés are one of my favorite things. What’s not to like? Cute tables, wicker chairs, the ambiance of café culture and, of course, the food. It all has that je ne sais quois that feels so French. When I’ve had the good fortune to visit Paris, sitting at an outdoor café is the first thing I want to do. There are a few cafés I am especially fond of in Montmartre. This is the neighborhood where I’ve often stayed. I still remember the breakfast my husband and I had at Chez Clint on one or our trips. Divine espresso and an omelet filled to the brim with French cheese. Oooh la la!
It’s all about the journey,
Beth
Paris, je t’aime
Paris, je t’aime. I love sitting at your sidewalk cafes, sipping espresso, dining on French omelets and Salad Nicoise.
I love strolling along the Seine at sunset and amid your beautiful gardens on a sunny afternoon, the Tuileries, Jardin du Luxembourg.
I love climbing the hills of Montmartre to look out over the spectacular city you are. I love your grand boulevards and tiny side streets, your elegant architecture and stately statuary. I will never tire of your vibrant markets, trendy shops, the lilt of the French language, your je ne sais quois.
I have been so fortunate to have had opportunities to get to know Paris. During the mid 1980s, when I was an international student studying in Amsterdam, I made several journeys by train to Paris.
On various trips to Armenia, Paris was our preferred stopover. We’d spend several days on the front end of each trip–joie de vivre–before continuing on to Yerevan and several days again on the tail end before heading home to Seattle. And this past May I visited Paris solo–seven glorious days all to myself soaking in everything Paris has to offer, exploring new neighborhoods and revisiting old favorites.
Four months had passed since the Charlie Hebdo shootings. I’ll be honest, I thought about it as my flight took off and headed overseas, and I thought about it as I wove my way through the city. At first, I walked and walked for miles, reluctant to ride the Metro. I kept my distance from large crowds. I took measures–so I thought–to be safe. But that didn’t last for very long, and I’m grateful I didn’t let my fear get the best of me, the best of my visit to one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
As horrific as the attacks in Paris and Beirut last week are, I am reminded that the only way I can ensure my safety is to avoid getting on a plane, never sit at a sidewalk cafe, maybe never leave my house. And while I can’t say I live without fear, I know I don’t want to let fear be my guide. Because if I do, I will never be able to enjoy the adventures one experiences only if you leave the protection of your nest.
I love you Paris. One day I will see you again. For me you will always be the City of Light.
Take the road less traveled, Beth
Le mur des je t’aime – Wall of I love you
The “I love you” wall stands at the center of a garden just behind the Abesses Metro Station in Montmartre, Paris. 612 tiles of enameled lava cover a surface area of 40 square meters. The phrase “I love you” is written more than a thousand times in over 300 different languages.
The wall was created by two artists, Frederic Baron and Claire Kito, as a location for lovers to rendezvous as well as a lasting monument to eternal adoration. The phrases were collected by Frederic Baron in notebooks by knocking on the doors of embassies and asking their neighbors until he had collected more than 300 languages all expressing the powerful sentiment of love. Frederic Baron then asked Claire Kito, an artist who practices oriental calligraphy, to assemble the script. Baron states, “The bursts of color on the fresco represent the pieces of a broken heart, the heart of a humanity so often torn apart and which the wall tries to gather together.”
The garden itself–in Square Jehan Rictus–is worth stopping by for a stroll, lovely and serene, the perfect place to step away if you are in Montmarte and have battled the crowds at Sacre Coeur. Square Jehan Rictus originally opened in 1936 on the site of the old town hall where the Commune of Montmartre stood from 1837 to 1882. In 1994, the square was reconstructed and planted with a large variety of shrubs and trees, laid out around a central fountain.
The square was named after Gabriel Randon de Saint-Amand (1867-1933), alias Jehan Rictus, a Montmartre artist who gained fame with his poems and songs written in the popular French of the time. He was a friend of painter Paul Gaugin and many other famous artists. A little oasis of greenery near the busy rue des Abbesses, it’s a wonderful spot to stop and sit and enjoy the quieter side of Paris.
Directions: Paris, Montmartre, 18th District – Square Jehan Rictus
Metro station: Abbesses on Line 12
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Take the road less traveled, Beth
Montmartre at midnight
It was Montmartre
It was midnight Come to think of it
It was spring…
~Mam’selle
At night, Paris –La Ville Lumière– comes alive with luminescence, the soft glow from iron-grated windows, a steady beam from a streetlamp, and tiny candles from the thousands of cafes. Paris has long been referred to as “The City of Light” both because of its leading role during the Age of Enlightenment, and more literally because Paris was one of the first European cities to adopt gas street lighting. Here are a few night scenes with the lights of Montmartre, my favorite neighborhood.
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Take the road less traveled, Beth
Reflections in Paris
I love capturing reflections when I travel, in windows, at the water’s edge, on a tabletop, the rear window of a car. Life in the mirror, the view before your eyes. And yet, at the same time, a different perspective. Here are a few, from Paris.
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Take the road less traveled, Beth
Behind the scene in Paris
As a photographer, with a daughter who does not like being in front of the camera, I am forever trying to coach a smile. And when traveling, catching candid photos of locals–face on–can be a challenge or, in some countries, dangerous. Interestingly enough, I’ve found you can still capture the mood of a person from behind. You also get a sense of them from their stance, gestures, action, clothing, and the intimacy or distance with which they are standing next to their family or companions. Here are a few shots I’ve taken “behind the scene” in Paris.
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Take the road less traveled, Beth
Street art in Paris: La Butte aux Cailles
Most tourists interested in Parisian art head to the Louvre, the Pompidou Center or Musee d’Orsay, but you can find some great art right in the streets of Paris. La Butte aux Cailles, in the 13th arrondissement, is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, and walk the quiet cobbled streets filled with art. La Butte aux Cailles is quite different from most neighborhoods in Paris. Quaint and quirky, nestled on a hilltop south of Paris, La Butte aux Cailles–or Quail Hill–was named after Pierre Caille, a former landowner in 1543.
Centuries ago, the River Bièvre flowed through this tiny village filled with farms and windmills. During the 17th century numerous industries, such as tanning, centered around the river which led to Butte aux Cailles. An unfortunate consequence of the dye factories was the River Bièvre turned into an open-air sewer. Slowly, streets were built that covered the river.
In more recent years, Butte aux Cailles attracted a great many artists including street art enthusiasts who have turned the district into an outdoor canvas. You’ll stumble across whimsical murals around nearly every serpentine corner.
La Butte aux Cailles was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris. I loved wandering the streets and seeing the amazing murals. tiny one-story houses. Plus, it really felt like we were in a village, not an enormous city.
If you happen to visit on a Tuesday, Friday or Sunday you can enjoy the outdoor market that takes place on Blvd. Auguste Blanqui. Or stop in Les Abeilles (21 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles) and try locally made honey. I’ve heard the owner Jacques Schakmundès, has been spearheaded the installation of beehives in many Parisian backyards and rooftops.
Pack a picnic lunch, or stop in one of the many cafes, and treat yourself to a side of Paris few visitors get to see. To reach lovely La Butte aux Cailles, take metro lines 5, 6 or 7 to Place d’Italie or Corvisart or the bus lines 57, 62, and 67.
Take the road less traveled, Beth
The oldest vineyard in Paris
Strolling through Montmartre, you could easily miss it–a vineyard–in the middle of Paris. And not just any vineyard. but the oldest vineyard in the City of Light: Clos Montmartre.
Vineyards have flourished on Montmartre since the Romans built a temple here dedicated to Bacchus, god of wine. A Benedictine abbey was created on the hill in the 12th century but destroyed during the French revolution. Fortunately Clos Montmartre was spared. But in the early 1900s, phylloxera destroyed the vines and the vineyard was left uncared for. Then, in the 1930s, a group of local artists, including the famous draughtsman and illustrator Francisque Poulbot, petitioned the government to grant them the land so they could replant the vines. The plan was approved and Clos Montmartre was renewed in 1932.
I love Montmartre. On our visits to Paris, it is the neighborhood where we’ve stayed. Winding streets and lovely views are immeasurably enticing. Sacre Coeur aside, the neighborhood became immensely popular following the release of the film, Amélie.
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On all our visits, we’ve enjoyed self-guided walking tours using: City Walks in Paris: 50 Adventures on Foot (revised edition).
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One of our favorite walks begins along Rue Lepic, the site of the lovely art deco cafe where Amélie worked, Café des Deux Moulins. As you meander up Rue Lepic, you’ll pass the flats that several famous painters, Van Gogh, Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec, called home. Continuing up the hill (a good workout, I should add), you’ll see the historic Moulin de la Galette, a windmill–still in operation–that inspired Renoir’s famous painting, Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette.
At last you’ll arrive at the corner of rue des Saules and rue Saint Vincent where the working vineyard is situated against a colorful backdrop of vine-covered homes.Clos Montmartre vineyard stretches over 1,556 square meters (1,850 square yards) on a steep hill, grows 27 varietals (most Gamay and Pinot Noir), and yields 1500 half-liter bottles per year.
However, the wine is only available for purchase (and drinking!) once each year at annual Fête des vendanges (grape harvest party). The Clos Montmartre harvest party has taken place every October, except during World War II. In autumn, the grapes are harvested and brought down to the basement of the town hall in the 18th Arondissement, where they’re pressed, fermented and bottled. Each year’s wine labels are painted by local artists and the money raised from sales of the $50 half-bottles goes to charity.
Francis Gourdin, has been Clos Montmartre’s oenological advisor since 1995. He leads guided tours during the festival and explains to visitors that although it’s not easy to make good wine in such a polluted spot, it’s not impossible. Those who have tasted Clos Montmartre give it mixed reviews, but the bottles are considered collector’s items and are a great souvenir from a fun charitable event.
If you have the good fortune to be traveling to Paris a week from now, Fête des vendanges will be held October 8-12. You can get more information about the festival here.
How to get to Clos Montmartre:
Street address: 14-18, rue des Saules, 75018, Montmartre, Paris
Metro line: 12
Metro stop: Lamarck-Coulaincourt
Note: The Montmartre Vineyards are usually closed to visitors. If you are unable to visit during Fête des Vendanges, entry to the vineyard can be arranged through the Montmartre tourist Office at Place du Tertre, if you are in a group of 12 or more. Once inside, you will pay for a tasting, although the tour is free.
Take the road less traveled, Beth