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Kids on Kauai: 8 things to do rain or shine

February 20, 2015 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

A year ago, we vacationed on Kauai. We rented a house on the north shore near the town of Kilauea.

the island of Kauai

I’d like to say we spent the entire trip sunning ourselves on a sandy beach, but sun was a scarce commodity. Big Papa would remind me: Well, we are staying within a few miles of the rainiest spot on earth.

Poipu

But the ocean was–right there–as were turtles, so I am fondly reminiscing. Plus, Big Papa got me a tropical bouquet for Valentine’s Day this year with a few of these:

Ginger flowers

And these…so I’ve been missing Kauai.

Kauain Bird of Paradise

This was Little Bird’s first trip to the tropics. For a 2-1/2 year old, island life is grand. Here are 8 of her favorite things to do on the island of Kauai, rain or shine.

1. Ride the mini-carousel in Hanalei. We did this several times during a downpour. Bring lots of quarters.

Hanalei carousel

2. Eat shave ice. It’s extravagant, colorful and yummy. This monster cup is from Ono Ono in Kapa’a.

Shave Ice Kapa'a Ono Ono

3. Go to the beach. Anini Beach is awesome for Keiki–little ones. And there are turtles.

Upside down at Anini Beach

4. Chase chickens. They are everywhere, so why not?

Chasing chickens

5. Hop aboard the Kauai Plantation Railway. Beautiful farmland, a train stop to check out goats and pigs. Samples tasty rum back at the depot. Something for all ages.

Kauai Plantation Railway

6. Kanoodle with the babysitter. First time we’ve ever had someone sit for Little Bird on vacation. Sharon was the bomb. Arrived with a suitcase full of fun. Ardea loved her. Best $ Mama and Dada spent!

Babysitter on Kauai

7. Luxuriate in the outdoor shower. This was Mama and Little Bird’s special together time every day. We had a blast.

Outdoor shower

8.  Which brings us to the BEST thing of all to do on Kauai. Run NAKED as much as possible. Who cares about free-range chickens? Free-range kids are where it’s at.

Rain or shine, run wild, run free. Be a kid on Kauai.

Naked kid in Hawaii

Take the road less traveled, Beth

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Filed Under: Things to do with kids, Travel Tagged With: Kauai

At play in the ocean

April 11, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

I saw you in my dream
We were walking hand in hand
On a white sandy beach of Hawaii

We were playing in the sun
We were having so much fun
On a white sandy beach of Hawaii

The sound of the ocean
Soothes my restless soul
The sound of the ocean
Rocks me all night long

~Israel Kamakawiwo’ole

Family at Ke'e Beach on Kaua

Family at Ke'e Beach on Kauai

At play Ke'e Beach sunset

Coming in from Ke'e Beach sunset

Ke'e Beach sunset

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Family, Israel Kamakawiwo’ole, Kauai, Ke'e Beach, ocean, play, sunset

Birds of Kauai

April 4, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Birds of Kauai:

We saw some wonderfully colored birds on our trip to Kauai.

Talking Cardinal

Cardinal

Blue Booby

Blue Booby

Pea Fowl

Pea Fowl

Zebra dove

Zebra Dove

Red-tailed tropicbird

Red-tailed Tropicbird

Red-crested Cardinal

Red-crested Cardinal

Snow Goose and Two Nene

A Snow Goose and two Hawaiian Nene (YES! A Snow Goose on Kauai)

Finch Finch

Egret

Egret

Female red-crested cardinal

Female red-crested cardinal

Albatross

Albatross

Mr. Fluffles

….and our daughter’s beloved heron, aka Mr. Fluffles

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Photography Tagged With: albatross, Blue Booby, Cardinal, egret, finch, heron, Kauai, Nene, Pea Fowl, red-crested cardinal, red-tailed tropicbird, snow goose, zebra dove

Finding bliss in an outdoor shower

April 2, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Naked in the river skinny dippin’ my way
In the waterfall I just wanna play

~Red Hot Chili Peppers, Naked in The Rain

All wet outdoor shower

If you ask my daughter what she enjoyed most about our trip to Kauai, she will tell you: The outdoor shower! And I have to admit, it was one of the highlights of our vacation for me too. Every day, the two of us would strip down–nudie-tootie as we like to call it–grab our towels, and head outside.

Our little ritual was pure bliss. There is something absolutely freeing about being in a place warm enough and private enough to let it all hang out. We’d laugh and dance around. Afterwards we’d take our towels and strut proudly back to our vacation cottage, both feeling like we just got away with something. I loved seeing how utterly happy and carefree my Baby Bird was as she experienced this simple pleasure.

Outdoor shower on Kauai

Outdoor shower on Kauai

Outdoor shower glee

Tongue out in the Kauai outdoor shower

Taking the towel indoors

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Kauai, naked, nudie-tootie, outdoor shower, Red Hot Chili Peppers, towel

The little mermaid of Anini Beach

March 19, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

You got your own style, now let it come through. And remember no matter what, you got to be you.

~ Sebastian from the Little Mermaid

Hanalei mermaid

Anini Beach is, in my biased opinion, the best beach on Kauai (at least on the north shore) for little swimmers (and big swimmers too). It is just north of Kilaeau town, a lovely crescent-shaped stretch of beach with a sandy gentle slope into the ocean. We made several trips during our vacation on Kauai. Anini is one of the few beaches visitors (and locals) can enjoy all year long.

 Big Papa and Baby Bird at Anini Beach Kauai

A local tipped us off that if you keep driving north, past the main beach, there is a lovely beach (part of Anini) that is perfect for keiki (Hawaiian for “the little one”). And indeed it was! Our little mermaid was in heaven: the waves were gentle, and the sand was soft. She had a blast in the water (her first ocean visit) splashing, jumping, and frolicking to her heart’s content.

Upside down at Anini Beach

Back on the sand, we built sandcastles (and the sand there is perfect for this, not too rocky, not too soft), chased chickens (naturally!), and watched the SUPs (Stand-up Paddle), surfers (on the southern-most edge of the beach), and snorkelers. On the main beach there are picnic tables, bathroom and outdoor shower facilities, and a boat launch (and ample parking). Apparently, it’s also possible to camp at Anini Beach. We saw a few tents when we were there. Something for just about everyone.

Big Papa snorkeling at Anini Beach

SUP mom and kids on Kauai

Big Papa and I traded off keeping an eye on our own keiki so we could each try a bit of snorkeling  and, despite the somewhat murky waters, we saw a lot of fish…and honu (turtles)! I’ve heard people say that the coral on the extensive reef at Anini has not fared well in recent years, but we still found plenty of sea life, including the ever-colorful (and mouthful to say) Humahumanukanukaapua’a or Triggerfish, super skinny trumpetfish, and a really cool-looking snowflake moray eel.

Honu turtle on Kauai

Each time we had to pack up and head home, I felt a little sad. Thank goodness–memories of a good time spent at Anini aside–each time we left, we took a bit of the beach with us.

Sandy booty at Anini

Take the road less traveled, Beth

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Anini Beach, chickens, Humahumanukanukaapua'a, Kauai, mermaid, picnic, sand, snorkel, snowflake moray eel, SUP, surf, The Little Mermaid, triggerfish, trumpetfish

Why did the chicken cross the road?

March 12, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Hen and chicks crossing road on Kauai

Why did the chicken cross the road? Because, on Kauai, there isn’t a road without them.

While Hawaii’s official State bird is the Hawaiian Goose, or Nene, on Kauai everyone jokes that the “official” birds of the Garden Island (aka “Chicken Isle”) are feral chickens (and wild roosters in particular). Chickens and roosters are everywhere: at the airport, in parking lots, at gas stations, in shopping centers, on the golf courses, on the beach and  in the woods.

Lovely Kauai, the garden island where you can warm yourself in the sun, while you listen to the waves crashing on the shore, and–Cock-a-doodle-doo–all day long! One of the biggest rooster-related complaints is the 24-7 crowing. Apparently Kauai roosters aren’t concerned about whether it’s morning or night.

Chickens have a long history in the Hawaiian islands, a melding pot for people, plants, and animals. The first arrival of the Polynesian voyagers, ancestors of the Hawaiian people brought everything they needed to survive. Plants like bananas and coconuts, and animals such as chickens (moa), pigs (pua’a), dogs (‘I’ilio), and rats (‘I’ole). These animals were introduced alongside native populations of birds, monk seals, and bats…and they thrived, often to the detriment of native species.

The spectacularly plumed roosters and rainbow-colored spotted hens you see on Kauai now, are descendants of the original Moa (or canoe fowl). But they have strengthened their genetics by co-mingling with traditional white barnyard fowl and fighting cocks (introduced on Kauai by Filipino immigrants during the island’s early plantation days) that were originally housed in pens and chicken coops throughout the island.

Kauai rooster

Kauai is one of the greatest places in the world to just be a chicken! If you ask why chickens rule the roost on this Hawaiian island, you’ll get a number of different answers. The truth doesn’t lie in any one reason, but in a combination of them all.

The first and most important reason is that Kauai has never had a serious predator to the chicken. Other Hawaiian Islands have escaped this chicken profusion because early sugar growers introduced mongoose to all the islands except Kauai. They believed that mongoose would keep the Polynesian rat from decimating the sugar crop. However, the growers overlooked the fact that mongoose — natural rat killers — are daytime animals, and rats are nocturnal, so the two never engaged in battle. Mongoose also eat bird — and chicken — eggs , thereby greatly reducing bird populations on all islands but Kauai. Local legend has it that a mongoose bit the hand of a Kauai dockworker, who knocked the entire crate of mongoose into the bay, and no more were imported. So the next a rooster awakes you from peaceful slumber, you can thank the plantation bosses who kept the mongoose away from the Garden Isle. The good news is that Kauai, lacking in mongoose, has been able to maintain the population of native and endemic bird species on the island.

Foul weather is another contributor to the abundance of  fowl. Some of the chickens are domesticated chickens that get released (on purpose) into the wild and then breed with Hawaiian jungle fowl. But mother nature has played her hand in chicken overpopulation too with various hurricanes, tsunamis, and other weather events that release large populations of domestic birds into the wild. Hurricane Iniki on September 11, 1992 leveled Kauai, and is well known for releasing many domestic birds into the wild. Those in the know about the Kauai chicken population can generally tell if a bird is a domestic, native, or cross-bred chicken. Certain colors, body shapes, and feathers make the moa (wild native jungle fowl) distinct.

The last major contributor to the Kauai chicken population explosion is a jaw-dropper, even to some people who have lived on Kauai all their lives.  Kauai’s wild jungle fowl is protected: under state law–like all birds of Hawaii–the moa is protected as an important part of nature on the island. Although the law itself and the repercussions of breaking it, are rarely spoken of, harming wild moa is a crime in the state of Hawaii.

Baby chicks on Kauai

So what are they good for? Well, for one, their adorableness as baby chicks, and their photogenic beauty as adults (the roosters, especially, are one colorful bunch).

You might also look at them with an appreciation for their longstanding place in the Kauai landscape and culture! And, possibly most important, they like to eat bugs,  lot of bugs (like the much feared poisonous centipede).

Even Baby Bird found something to crow about. She started the trip rooster-ready with an awesome sun hat (shout out to Tracy of Impwear for finding her LAST rooster hat in Baby Bird’s size–can’t think of a better place to wear it than on Kauai).

In her Impwear rooster hat on Kauai

Then came the chicken chasing. I mean, truly, if you are a toddler what else could possibly be more fun than chasing chickens. Fortunately (for her), they are faster than she is.

Chasing roosters on Kauai

Heck, she even selected the Moa Kane Keiki Kruisers tee-shirt at Magic Dragon Toys & Games in the Princeville Center. She could pick from a whale, a turtle, a pig, a dragon (Puff), dolphin, shark, octopus–yet she chose the chicken. I swear I did not influence her choice. Quite honestly, I was angling for honu (turtle).

Keiki Kruisers Moa tee on Kauai

Aside from the annoyance and the noise, there is one more (surprising) thing Kauai moa are not good for: eating. You know that expression, “tough old bird?” This defines the culinary category in which the chickens of Kauai fall.

Rooster at Ke'e Beach on Kauai

There is an old Hawaiian proverb: If you like eat da chicken get two pots of water to a boil. In one pot put da pohaku (lava rock) and in the other put da moa (wild chicken). Once the lava rock is done da moa is ready to eat.

Take the road less traveled (but look both ways before you cross), Beth

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Chicken Isle, chickens, chicks, Garden Island, hen, honu, Impwear, Kauai, Keiki Kruisers, Magic Dragon Toys & Games, Nene, Princeville Center, Puff, rooster, turtle

Paddling in the shadow of Puff with Kayak Kauai

March 4, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Puff, the magic dragon lived by the sea
And frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Honah Lee

~Peter, Paul, and Mary

Puff the Magic Dragon rising from Hanalei Bay

“Look, you can see his eye,” said our guide Amos (“Famous Amos” or “Amos of the pink tee-shirt”), pointing to the bare brown spot on the side of a green mountain looming in the distance on the north side of Hanalei Bay (Han-a-lay, rather than Han-a-lee as in the song). “And those ridges are his back.”

I squinted, peering across the waves. Sure enough, there he was–Puff–the mythical magic dragon, rising majestically from the ocean surf, unfurling his tail towards towards the mountain peaks of Hihimanu, Namolokama and Mamalahoa, stretching his powerful jaws into the blue-green ocean beyond.

Kayak Kauai paddling companions at Hanalei River

Amos, quintessential surfer boy–slim and toned, bronzed skin, hair bleached blonde by the sun, Hawaii transplant by way of California–was our guide for a five-hour tour up, and then back down, the Hanalei River. Our adventure companions, another couple, call Wyoming home, but hail from central Pennsylvania (he) and Rochester, N.Y. (she). What are the odds we’d find ourselves paddling in the shadow of Puff with two people who grew up a stone’s throw away from where we grew up?

Hanalei River reflections in Kauai

We chose Kayak Kauai, the oldest kayak tour company on Kauai (and the first to offer kayak tours of Kauai’s Napali coast) for our trip, the Kayak Kauai Hanalei Blue Lagoon X-tra, which began at the mouth of the river with Amos covering the basics of paddling and kayak safety before we hopped in and headed up river. The sky was slate gray in spots, threatening rain and blue in others, a glimmer of hope. I focused on the bits of blue sky. Much of our vacation–up to this point–had been decidedly gray and rain-soaked.

Amos told us we would paddle up the river (and against the current) for about two miles before turning around and paddling back to Hanalei Bay, where we’d have the opportunity (surf and weather permitting) to try our hand, er paddle, at ocean kayaking. The river was calm and the current mild (though there was a noticeable difference in the amount of exertion required when we headed back down the river with the current pushing us along).

Palm trees over Hanalei River in Kauai

We passed other kayakers and saw several stand up paddle boarders (SUP) as we lazed our way along the river (Kayak Kauai also rents equipment and offers stand up paddle boarding, kayaking and surfing lessons). Amos pointed out plants and birds while telling us a bit about the history of the river. We each nibbled on a yellow hibiscus plucked from the abundance of hibiscus plants lining the banks of the river (hibiscus tastes like a milder version of the nasturtiums I pick from our garden), chatted and laughed. Big Papa and I, along with our traveling companions, expressed gratitude that we found someone to watch our kids (grandmother for them and a babysitter for us), making it possible for us to venture out sans children.

Yellow hibiscus on Hanalei River

When we decided to turn around and head back toward Hanalei Bay for our ocean kayak lesson, lunch and snorkeling, one of our traveling companions asked, “Do you ever encounter sharks in the bay?”

Amos replied, “You’re more likely to be hit by a coconut in the U.S., than be attacked by sharks, bears and lightening combined.

” But do you ever see sharks?”

“Oh yeah.”

We all hoped out loud that we wouldn’t.

Beach by Hanalei Bay

I know I forgot all about it, at least for the ten minutes it took for us to paddle through the choppy waters of Hanalei Bay to a small slice of beach where Amos set out a delicious picnic lunch. Extra (gluten-free!) brownie points for the option to enjoy a gluten-free sandwich (we submitted our lunch request pre-trip). This was a huge bonus for Big Papa who usually finds himself munching on sport bars or removing the insides of the sandwich from the bread. As for me, admittedly not a “chips person,” I could have easily eaten the entire bag of locally made taro chips all by myself. And then there was the fresh pineapple. We each received a generous piece of mouth-watering fruit that Amos cut straight from the source.

After lunch, we did a bit of snorkeling. Not much to see–a few fish here and there–with somewhat murky water from all the recent rain, though it’s always fun to spot–if not say–Humahumanukanukaapua’a (otherwise known as the Reef Triggerfish, and the official state fish of  Hawaii).

Hanalei Bay at the mouth of the Hanalei River

My muscles felt sore, in a good way, as we paddled across the southern-most edge of Hanalei Bay, with Amos offering pointers on how to ride a few waves back to our starting point. We had smiles on our faces, and even a bit of a tan on our shoulders as we pulled our kayaks onto the beach.

Mahalo to Kauai for for a few (much needed) hours of warmth and sunshine. Mahalo to Kayak Kauai and our guide Amos for a fun afternoon paddling in the waters of Hanalei. And Mahalo to Puff, for keeping an eye on us during our magical adventure.

For more information about Kayak Kaui’s adventure trips, check out their website: http://kayakkauai.com/

 kayak and blue toenails at Hanalei River

Take the road (or the river) less traveled, Beth

Our trip was provided free for review purposes, but all opinions expressed in this article are my honest opinion.

Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Hanalei, Hanalei Bay, Hanalei River, Hibiscus, Humahumanukanukaapua'a, Kauai, kayak, Kayak Kauai, Mahalo, ocean, paddling, Puff the magic dragon, Reef Triggerfish, stand up paddle boarding, SUP

Bird on wire

February 27, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Life should be lived on the edge of life. You have to exercise rebellion: to refuse to tape yourself to rules, to refuse your own success, to refuse to repeat yourself, to see every day, every year, every idea as a true challenge – and then you are going to live your life on a tightrope.

~Philippe Petit, Man on Wire

When we were in Kauai, we watched this young cattle egret do his  Hawaiian bird dance. He took once step to the left and then another, wobbling. Then he turned around and awkwardly walked to the right. Every now and then, he’d try out a pirouette. He walked back and forth across his tightrope in the sky, until he finally called it a day, exalted, and a bit worse for the wear.

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

White crane on a phone wire

White crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Dance of the white crane

Take the road less traveled, Beth

 

Filed Under: Photography Tagged With: cattle egret, dance, Kauai, Man on Wire, Philippe Petit, tightrope

Fantastical fruit in Kauai

February 25, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

One of my favorite things about traveling is trying new food, especially fruit and vegetables that I’ve never seen before. So on our recent trip I was in heaven when we found ourselves surrounded by fantastical fruit in Kauai: mangosteen, longan, rambutan, jackfruit, tiny latundan (apple) bananas, and small sweet low-acid pineapple–just the tip of the tropical iceberg –of exotic fruits and vegetables to be found at farmers markets, grocery stores or simply growing by the roadside.

Jackfruit with sunglasses and pineapple

Jackfruit and pineapple

The flesh of the jackfruit is starchy and fibrous and is a source of dietary fiber. The flavor is comparable to a combination of apple, pineapple, mango and banana.

Mangosteen fruit

Mangosteen

I loved this fruit! Juicy, silky, decadent, sweet, fragrant with a flavor like strawberry, peach, vanilla ice cream. Long illegal in the U.S., due to the belief that they harbored the Asian fruit fly, mangosteens are no longer contraband. The ban was lifted in October of 2007, which I was delighted to find out.

Mangosteen sections

Pearly white mangosteen sections…yum!

Pineapple and mangosteen

Pineapple and mangosteen

This pineapple was so aromatic and the fruit was sweet and very low-acid. Fabulous!

Rambutan fruit

Rambutan fruit

A bit chewy (grape-like texture) with a lychee-like flavor (but not as drippy).

Rambutan

How could you not like this funny looking fruit?

Tangelo and apple bananas

Tangelo and apple bananas (latundan)

These bananas were the bomb. Small (many times I’ve wanted a little bit of banana which is nearly impossible given the size of bananas we typically see in the U.S.) with a tangy apple taste.

The rain in Kauai might have fooled me into thinking I was still in Seattle. But the fruit–ah, the fruit–definitely tropical paradise.

Take the road less traveled, Beth

And for more exotic eats, check out Wanderfood Wednesday!

Filed Under: Food Tagged With: apple banana, fruit, Hawaii, jackfruit, Kauai, Latundan bananas, longan, Lychee, mangosteen, pineapple, rambutan

Kilauea Fish Market

February 18, 2014 by Beth Shepherd Leave a Comment

Kilaeau Fish Market Kauai

Kilauea Fish Market menu in Kauai

We just returned from two very rainy weeks on the north shore of Kauai. While there we made numerous trips to the  Kilauea Fish Market, a tiny gem tucked away in Kiliauea, the town where we’ve stayed on both of our trips to this Hawaiian island. By the end our vacation we were regulars, faithfully stopping by to get an order to go, a brilliant plan because dining out with a toddler is a challenge. Plus we had a lovely, private and quiet (except for the toddler) cottage to return to.

There’s so much to like about this place: it’s convenient (if you’re staying in, or passing through, Kilauea), service was quick (it typically took about 15 minutes to prepare our meal), the little shopping center where the fish market is located (skate and surfboard shop, gift shop) is cute, you can eat outside on the patio or take your food to go, the staff is friendly. But the main reason I heart Kilauea Fish Market–the fish is outta this world!

It really didn’t matter what we ordered: Cajun Ahi fish plate, fish tacos, seaweed salad, Ahi poke, or burritos (okay, not on this trip, but the last trip before Big Papa went gluten-free)–we tried almost everything on the menu–and it was all mouth-watering delicious. Fish plates came served with a side of rice (brown or white) and your choice of green salad or potato-macaroni salad and you could order your fish to specification (seared, cooked through).

Kilaeau Fish Market ahi in Kauai

Usually we got a couple fish plates to go, but on one occasion we ordered a pound of Ono fish to take home and prepare ourselves. In Hawaiian, Ono means “sweet, very good to eat,” and another name for Ono is Wahoo! How could you not like a fish called Wahoo?

Kilauea, I don’t miss the torrential downpours we encountered during our vacation, but I sure do miss your fish!

Kilaeau Fish Market ahi dinner in Kauai

 More posts about our Kauai trip to follow–Aloha!

Kilaeau Fish Market paddle in Kauai

Take the road less traveled, Beth

And check out more yummy posts on Wanderfood Wednesday!

Filed Under: Food Tagged With: burritos, fish tacos, Hawaii, Kauai, Kauai Fish Market, Kilauea, ono, sushi, tuna

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Some might fend off a mid-life crisis by leaving the comforts of their corporate salary to jet off to a deserted island. Others might buy a Jaguar. I’ve chosen to dive head-long into my 50s and beyond by becoming a first-time parent. At any given moment you might find me holding a camera, a spade, a spatula or a suitcase. Or my little girl's hand. Adopted from Armenia, she puts the Pampers and Paklava into my life.

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