Who would have guessed that in a small landlocked, mountainous country in the South Caucasus, you can find the most delicious fish? Not me. But you can, and that’s why I’ve been dreaming about eating fish, Ishkan fish.
Ishkan fish is a lake trout from Lake Sevan in Armenia.Lake Sevan was once the largest lake in the region, teeming with Ishkan trout, which was a species endemic to the lake. Unfortunately, during the era of Soviet control, the level of the lake was lowered, competitive species of fish were introduced (whitefish, goldfish and crayfish) and Lake Sevan trout were fished to near extinction (the “winter trout” sub-species no longer exists in the lake).
Today, farm-raised trout are released into the lake, and licenses are issued. The fee for each fish caught is U.S, $ 25.00, but you can buy the same trout in Yerevan or Gyumri, the second largest city, for a fraction. And if you like fresh fish prepared skillfully on location, head to Gyumri and ask for directions to Cherkezi Dzor Fish Farm and Restaurant.
Cherkezi Dzor is located in a valley at the foot of the Red Fort. The fortress was built in the early 1800’s under the decree of Russian Tsar Nicholas I. The restaurant company owns and operates seven fish farms throughout Armenia and sells sturgeon along with fresh lake, river, and brook trout. And…Lake Sevan trout.
Although we visited Cherkezi Dzor on a cold day in March, I’ve heard the fish farm is lovely in May when the apple and pear trees bloom. For us, the restaurant was a warm and quiet respite. We ordered our fish, and while it was being prepared, wandered around the grounds, peering into pools teaming with fish, watching lavash being made in a tonir (deep, in-ground clay oven), until we headed back to the main building, and enjoyed our lunch.
Big Papa and I ordered our trout wrapped in lavash, but I also wanted to try it poached the Armenian way, half steamed and half boiled. Our fish was delicious, the ambience at Cherkezi Dzor was rustic and homey, and the service was friendly and very competent. I can see why many people make the two-hour drive from Yerevan, the capital, just to enjoy skillfully prepared fresh trout or baked sturgeon, in a beautiful setting.
Sadly, Seattle is a long, long way from Lake Sevan. To satisfy my craving, we bought steelhead trout. Big Papa cooked it on the grill. We paired it with a salad and rice mixed with nuts, dried fruit and pomegranate seeds.
It was delicious. But it wasn’t Ishkan fish.
Grilled Steelhead Trout
Recipe makes 4 servings
Ingredients
- Olive oil
- 1 pound skinless steelhead trout fillets
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- 2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme
- Salt and pepper to season
Directions
- Lightly brush the trout with olive oil.
- Mix wine, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, and thyme in a bowl; spread over the fillets, letting some run underneath the fish.
- Season with salt and pepper.
- We cooked our trout outdoors on the grill for about ten minutes.
- You can also bake the trout in your oven. Preheat to 400 degrees. Use a baking dish, lightly coated with olive oil place the trout inside. Follow the remaining directions including cooking time (10-15 min.).
- Trout should flake easily.
Want to fish for more deliciousness? Check out Wanderfood Wednesday!